本實驗研究旨在探討碎波帶的水動力及紊流特性。本研究使用質點影像測速儀配合空間鑲嵌法來完整呈現1/20光滑斜坡上的溢波碎波內部流場，重複多次相同實驗並利用整體平均法來分離紊流擾動。本研究將量測所獲得的流場進行平均流、渦度場、流線、紊流動能、雷諾應力的時空分佈特性分析，並計算紊流傳輸項及最大主軸及應變率來討論紊流的傳遞特性。本文也計算碎波帶的整體能量通率及損耗並和模式比較，亦討論紊流消散對碎波整體能量的耗損貢獻。此外，本研究使用小波分析來分離出紊流的相參結構(coherent structure)並獲得此結構的空間尺度，進而探討碎波過程的紊流相參結構的演變。本文也推估了碎波帶的Kolmogorov紊流尺度及紊流混攪尺度(mixing length)等。
此外，本文利用高解析度的質點影像測速儀來研究1/20光滑斜坡上的溢波碎波底部邊界層，並利用整體平均法來分離紊流。此量測提供了平均流、紊流動能、及雷諾應力新的實驗資料。本研究將此資料加以分析並用來討論碎波帶紊流邊界層厚度、底床剪應力、尤拉質量傳輸的變化特性。
因為一般的測速儀器無法量測大尺度碎波含高濃度氣泡捲增的速度場，因此研發新的測速儀器來量化碎波帶及溯上區的水動力特性變的相當重要。本文利用熱影像技巧來量測孤立波碎波後的表面溫度場，此熱影像也被加以分析並獲得速度場及其空間的微分量如渦度或應變率等。據此，本研究探討了孤立波碎波後的表面熱結構分佈及水體運動特性。研究發現碎波後的表面流場會有特殊的熱結構物生成，二維的傅立葉分析被應用來探討此熱結構物的演化。本文也探討孤立波碎波後的運動特性。

Investigations of dynamics and turbulence under laboratory surf-zone breaking waves are presented. Velocity fields under spilling breakers over a 1:20 smooth inclined bottom were measured using particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. The turbulent and mean flow velocities were decomposed with an ensemble average method by repeating the same experiment multiple times. Seven fields of view were integrated into a global representation covering from the outer to the inner surf zone. Evolution of the ensemble-averaged flows, including vorticity, streamline, turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress in the surf zone were analyzed. Evolutionary process and transport mechanism of the turbulence were investigated by estimating the transport terms in k equation, principle axes and strain rate. The energy budget and energy flux across the surf zone were calculated and compared to a bore approximation model. The ratio of the turbulence dissipation rate to the total energy dissipation rate was also estimated. In addition, wavelet transform analysis was used to educe coherent structures and their length scales in the turbulent flow. The Kolmogorov length scale and turbulent mixing length were also estimated and discussed.
A high-resolution PIV technique was used to investigate the viscous boundary layer flow under the spilling breakers. The measurement provides new experimental data and physical insights for the distributions of mean velocity, turbulent kinetic energy, and Reynolds stress inside the surf-zone wave boundary layer. The data were then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness and bottom shear stress. Subsequently, Eulerian mass transport and the variation of the boundary layer thickness across the surf zone were discussed.
Because air bubbles entrained by the large-scale overturning jet of plunging breaker in the surf-zone spoil velocity measurements in the aerated region, a novel infrared imagery technique was developed to measure the surface temperature of solitary waves breaking in a super tank for quantifying the surf and swash flow dynamics. This technique allows us not only to extract the flow velocity and evaluate the spatial gradient-based quantities such as vorticity and strain rate in the highly foam area but also to quantify the thermal structure and kinematics at the skin layer of the water surface. A unique surface temperature structure was found during the solitary wave breaking process and its evolution was quantified by two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum analysis.

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