本文旨在探討海嘯長波與海岸結構物互制所產生之水動力及紊流特性，並以孤立波型態之長波作為海嘯波代表。是以二式為法：物理模型量測主要利用高解析度之質點影像測速儀配合空間鑲嵌法呈現流場結構，透過重複多次相同試驗，以及利用整體平均法，遂而求出平均物理量及紊流擾動量；數值模式則是基於雷諾平均方程式以及紊流模式，求解平均物理量與紊流動能。
首先，求索如何在數值模式中重現準確且穩定之孤立波。經由不同精度之孤立波理論解加至模式中，並分別利用邊界造波與源項造波之方式，論究造波之準確性與穩定性。前者乃依準確代表輸入之波高與實際模擬之波高差異言之，後者則是代表需要多長之傳播距離使模擬之波浪可趨於穩定。另外，黏滯性對孤立波於水平底床傳遞之影響，亦利用實驗量測與數值模擬論證之。
復次，探討孤立波與透水、不透水潛堤互制之議題。根據量測與模擬結果，紊流動能最大值皆發生於結構物之上游側。再者，利用巨觀描述，亦即平均之概念，模擬透水潛堤，則可擬得大部分的流體之水動力特性，但細節之流場結構則須仰賴微觀描述，即直接模擬透水結構物之粒徑組成以得之。
繼之，剖析孤立波與板式結構物之互制。針對不透水板，明顯之紊流動能發生在碎波捲入空氣之區域，以及流場分離所形成之渦流。而模擬此配置下所產生之紊流動能，則須仰賴基於非線性之渦動滯度假設下之紊流模式近似雷諾應力。而模擬高度產生流場分離的問題，譬如孤立波通過潛沒式孔隙板，則直接求解邊界層流況可得到較準確之模擬結果。
於末，解答連續孤立波在斜坡上碎波之疑義，藉由改變相鄰兩波峰之距離，其溯升、溯降等水動力特性亦因此而改變。
本研究主要貢獻在於提供量測之長波與結構物互制過程中，平均流與紊流之特性。通過精密之實驗量測與高精度數值模擬，耙梳四個與海岸工程相關之議題，既釐清並闡述詳細之物理現象，且又證實數值模式針對不同工程問題之準確性與適用性。

This dissertation presents an investigation on the wave hydrodynamics around coastal structures under tsunami–like long waves by means of solitary waves. For each topic of interest, numerical simulations are supported by carefully conducted experiments or available data in literature. Physical modeling relies on a high-resolution particle image velocimetry to measure velocity properties due to wave-structure interaction. By repeating sufficient times of identical experiment, meaningful turbulence information can be evaluated through the ensemble-averaged method for the mean velocities and the Reynolds-decomposition method for the velocity fluctuations. Numerical simulations are computed by a depth- and phase-resolving wave model based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations with an appropriate turbulence model to relate the Reynolds–Stress.
Propagation of solitary waves in a constant water depth is first investigated. Both the Dirichlet boundary condition and the internal mass source are utilized to generate desired solitary waves with the implementations of various solitary wave theories in the numerical model. The purpose of this attempt is to examine how to generate stable and accurate solitary wave in the first place. Accurate solitary waves are examined by means of relative error of the wave height between the input signal and the realistic generated wave while stable solitary waves are examined by means of how much distance is necessary to stabilize the waves. Attenuation of solitary waves propagating over a significant traveling distance due to viscous effect is then studied experimentally and numerically.
Next, interactions between solitary waves and submerged permeable/impermeable breakwaters are investigated. Maximum magnitude of turbulent intensity is always observed at the leading edge of the obstacle for both obstacle scenarios. It is found that the macroscopic approach for porous media flow can predict the overall velocity and turbulence fields but the detailed physics need to be achieved by means of the microscopic description for the flow within the porous structure.
Thirdly, we concern the wave hydrodynamics around an environmental-friendly coastal defense by means of submerged solid/slotted barrier under solitary waves. For the solid case, strong turbulence has been created by large amplitude of solitary wave and wave breaking occurred during wave–structure interaction. It is found that the non-linear eddy viscosity model to approximate the Reynolds-Stress is indeed important for the prediction of turbulent kinetic energy. For the slotted case, a complicated flow pattern due to flow separation and interactions between induced vortices has been observed by laboratory observation and later confirmed by simulation.
Last topic focuses on successive solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. By varying the time separation between two neighboring crests of solitary waves, significant difference on the run-up and run-down processes has been observed through numerical simulation. It should be devoted to experimental effort in order to verify the numerical findings.
This study mainly contributes to provide reliable measured data in terms of velocity and turbulence due to wave-structure interaction. Such data is then used to compare with numerical simulation in order to ensure that the present wave model can provide meaningful physics on coastal engineering related applications.

Adrian, R.J., 1991. Particle-imaging techniques for experimental fluid mechanics. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 23, 261-304.
Akbari, H., Namin, M.M., 2013. Moving particle method for modeling wave interaction with porous structures. Coastal Engineering 74, 59-73.
Bakhtyar, R., Barry, D.A., Yeganeh-Bakhtiary, A., Ghaheri, A., 2009. Numerical simulation of surf–swash zone motions and turbulent flow. Advances in Water Resources 32(2), 250-263.
Bardina, J.E., Huang, P.G., Coakley, T.J., 1997. Turbulence modeling validation, testing, and development, NASA Technical Memorandum.
Burcharth, H.F., Andersen, O.H., 1995. On the one-dimensional steady and unsteady porous flow equations. Coastal Engineering 24(3–4), 233-257.
Canny, J., 1986. A computational approach to edge detection. IEEE Transactions on Pattern Analysis and Machine Intelligence 8(6), 679-698.
Carrier, G.F., Wu, T.T., Yeh, H., 2003. Tsunami run-up and draw-down on a plane beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 475, 79-99.
Chan, E.S., Melville, W.K., 1988. Deep-water plunging wave pressures on a vertical plane wall. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences 417(1852), 95-131.
Chan, I.-C., Huang, L.-H., Hsieh, P.-C., 2003. Analysis of water waves passing over a submerged rectangular dike. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 129(6), 613-626.
Chan, I.-C., Liu, P.L.-F., 2012. On the runup of long waves on a plane beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 117(C8), C08006.
Chang, K.-A., Hsu, T.-J., Liu, P.L.-F., 2001. Vortex generation and evolution in water waves propagating over a submerged rectangular obstacle: Part i. Solitary waves. Coastal Engineering 44, 13-36.
Chang, K.-A., Hsu, T.-J., Liu, P.L.-F., 2005. Vortex generation and evolution in water waves propagating over a submerged rectangular obstacle: Part ii. Cnoidal waves. Coastal Engineering 52(3), 257-283.
Chang, K.-A., Liu, P.L.-F., 1999. Experimental investigation of turbulence generated by breaking waves in water of intermediate depth. Physics of Fluids 11(11), 3390-3400.
Charvet, I., Eames, I., Rossetto, T., 2013. New tsunami runup relationships based on long wave experiments. Ocean Modelling 69, 79-92.
Choi, B.H., Kim, D.C., Pelinovsky, E., Woo, S.B., 2007. Three‐dimensional simulation of tsunami run‐up around conical island. Coastal Engineering 54(8), 618-629.
Choi, J., Yoon, S.B., 2009. Numerical simulations using momentum source wave-maker applied to rans equation model. Coastal Engineering 56(10), 1043-1060.
Chorin, A.J., 1968. Numerical solution of the navier–stokes equations. Mathematics of Computation 22(104), 745-762.
Chorin, A.J., 1969. On the convergence of discrete approximations to the navier–stokes equations. Mathematics of Computation 23(106), 341-353.
Christensen, E.D., Walstra, D.-J., Emerat, N., 2002. Vertical variation of the flow across the surf zone. Coastal Engineering 45(3-4), 169-198.
Chuang, W.-L., Hsiao, S.-C., 2011. Three-dimensional numerical simulation of intake model with cross flow. Journal of Hydrodynamics, Ser. B 23(3), 314-324.
Cooker, M.J., Peregrine, D.H., Vidal, C., Dold, J.W., 1990. The interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged semicircular cylinder. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 215, 1-22.
del Jesus, M., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2012. Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures: Part i: Numerical model formulation. Coastal Engineering 64, 57-72.
Dutykh, D., Clamond, D., 2014. Efficient computation of steady solitary gravity waves. Wave Motion 51(1), 86-99.
Fenton, J., 1972. A ninth-order solution for the solitary wave. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 53(2), 257-271.
Gíslason, K., Fredsøe, J., Deigaard, R., Sumer, B.M., 2009a. Flow under standing waves: Part 1. Shear stress distribution, energy flux and steady streaming. Coastal Engineering 56(3), 341-362.
Gíslason, K., Fredsøe, J., Sumer, B.M., 2009b. Flow under standing waves: Part 2. Scour and deposition in front of breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 56(3), 363-370.
Garcia, N., Lara, J., Losada, I., 2004. 2-d numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested permeable breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 51(10), 991-1020.
Goring, D.G., 1978. Tsunamis-the propagation of long waves onto a shelf. Ph.D. Thesis, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Goseberg, N., Wurpts, A., Schlurmann, T., 2013. Laboratory-scale generation of tsunami and long waves. Coastal Engineering 79, 57-74.
Grilli, S.T., Losada, M.A., Martin, F., 1994. Characteristics of solitary wave breaking induced by breakwaters. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120(1), 74-93.
Grilli, S.T., Svendsen, I.A., Subramanya, R., 1997. Breaking criterion and characteristics for solitary waves on slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 123(3), 102-112.
Grimshaw, R., 1971. The solitary wave in water of variable depth. Part 2. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 46(3), 611-622.
Gullbrand, J., Chow, F.K., 2003. The effect of numerical errors and turbulence models in large-eddy simulations of channel flow, with and without explicit filtering. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 495, 323-341.
Ha, T., Lin, P., Cho, Y.-S., 2013. Generation of 3d regular and irregular waves using navier–stokes equations model with an internal wave maker. Coastal Engineering 76, 55-67.
Ha, T., Shim, J., Lin, P., Cho, Y.-S., 2014. Three-dimensional numerical simulation of solitary wave run-up using the ib method. Coastal Engineering 84, 38-55.
Higuera, P., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2013. Realistic wave generation and active wave absorption for navier–stokes models: Application to openfoam®. Coastal Engineering 71, 102-118.
Higuera, P., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2014a. Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures using openfoam®. Part i: Formulation and validation. Coastal Engineering 83, 243-258.
Higuera, P., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2014b. Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures using openfoam®. Part ii: Application. Coastal Engineering 83, 259-270.
Hirt, C.W., Nichols, B.D., 1981. Volume of fluid (vof) method for the dynamics of free boundaries. Journal of Computational Physics 39, 201-225.
Ho, T.-C., Lin, C., Hwang, K.-S., 2012. Characteristics of shear layer and primary vortex induced by solitary waves propagating over rectangular structures with different aspect ratios. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 138(9), 1084-1100.
Hsiao, S.-C., Hsu, T.-W., Lin, T.-C., Chang, Y.-H., 2008. On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach. Coastal Engineering 55(12), 975-988.
Hsiao, S.-C., Hu, K.-C., Hwung, H.-H., 2010. Extended boussinesq equations for water-wave propagation in porous media. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 136(5), 625-640.
Hsiao, S.-C., Lin, T.-C., 2010. Tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable seawall: Experiment and rans modeling. Coastal Engineering 57(1), 1-18.
Hsiao, S.-C., Liu, P.L.-F., Chen, Y., 2002. Nonlinear water waves propagating over a permeable bed. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 458(2022), 1291-1322.
Hsiao, S.S., Fang, H.M., Chang, J., Chang, J.R., 2007. Investigations on wave reflection characteristics due to composite breakwater. International Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering 17(2), 112-118.
Hsieh, C.-M., Hwang, R.R., Hsu, J.R.C., Cheng, M.-H., 2014. Flow evolution of an internal solitary wave generated by gravity collapse. Applied Ocean Research 48, 277-291.
Hsu, H.-C., Chen, Y.-Y., Hwung, H.-H., 2012. Experimental study of the particle paths in solitary water waves. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 370(1964), 1629-1637.
Hsu, T.-J., Elgar, S., Guza, R.T., 2006. Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration. Coastal Engineering 53(10), 817-824.
Hsu, T.-J., Sakakiyama, T., Liu, P.L.-F., 2002. A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater. Coastal Engineering 46, 25-50.
Hsu, T.-W., Chang, J.-Y., Lan, Y.-J., Lai, J.-W., Ou, S.-H., 2008. A parabolic equation for wave propagation over porous structures. Coastal Engineering 55(12), 1148-1158.
Hu, K.-C., Hsiao, S.-C., Hwung, H.-H., Wu, T.-R., 2012. Three-dimensional numerical modeling of the interaction of dam-break waves and porous media. Advances in Water Resources 47, 14-30.
Huang, C.-J., Chang, H.-H., Hwung, H.-H., 2003. Structural permeability effects on the interaction of a solitary wave and a submerged breakwater. Coastal Engineering 49(1-2), 1-24.
Huang, C.-J., Chen, C.-H., Chang, H.-H., 2011a. Propagation of water waves over permeable rippled beds. Ocean Engineering 38(4), 579-591.
Huang, C.-J., Dong, C.-M., 2001. On the interaction of a solitary wave and a submerged dike. Coastal Engineering 43(3-4), 265-286.
Huang, L.-H., Chao, H.-I., 1992. Reflection and transmission of water wave by porous breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 118(5), 437-452.
Huang, Z.-C., Hsiao, S.-C., Hwung, H.-H., 2009a. Observation of coherent turbulent structure under breaking waves. International Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering 19(1), 15-22.
Huang, Z.-C., Hsiao, S.-C., Hwung, H.-H., Chang, K.-A., 2009b. Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers. Coastal Engineering 56(7), 733-746.
Huang, Z.-C., Hwung, H.-H., Chang, K.-A., 2010. Wavelet-based vortical structure detection and length scale estimate for laboratory spilling waves. Coastal Engineering 57(9), 795-811.
Huang, Z., 2007a. An experimental study of wave scattering by a vertical slotted barrier in the presence of a current. Ocean Engineering 34(5-6), 717-723.
Huang, Z., 2007b. Wave interaction with one or two rows of closely spaced rectangular cylinders. Ocean Engineering 34(11-12), 1584-1591.
Huang, Z., 2008. Wave scattering by double slotted barriers in a steady current: Experiments. China Ocean Engineering 22(2), 205-214.
Huang, Z., Ghidaoui, M., 2007. A model for the scattering of long waves by slotted breakwaters in the presence of currents. Acta Mechanica Sinica 23(1), 1-9.
Huang, Z., Li, Y., Liu, Y., 2011b. Hydraulic performance and wave loadings of perforated/slotted coastal structures: A review. Ocean Engineering 38(10), 1031-1053.
Huang, Z., Liu, C.-R., 2008. A linear theory for wave scattering by double slotted barriers in weak steady currents. China Ocean Engineering 22(2), 215-226.
Huang, Z., Yuan, Z., 2010. Transmission of solitary waves through slotted barriers: A laboratory study with analysis by a long wave approximation. Journal of Hydro-environment Research 3(4), 179-185.
Hur, D.-S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Numerical estimation of the wave forces acting on a three-dimensional body on submerged breakwater. Coastal Engineering 47(3), 329-345.
Hwang, K.-S., Huang, Z.-C., Hwung, H.-H., Chang, K.-A., 2009. Unstable vortices induced by solitary waves propagating over a rectangular barrier. Proceedings of the 10th Asian Symposium on Visualization, India.
Irish, J. et al., 2014. Laboratory experiments of tsunami run-up and withdrawal in patchy coastal forest on a steep beach. Natural Hazards 74(3), 1933-1949.
Isaacson, M., Baldwin, J., Premasiri, S., Yang, G., 1999. Wave interactions with double slotted barriers. Applied Ocean Research 21(2), 81-91.
Isaacson, M., Premasiri, S., Yang, G., 1998. Wave interactions with vertical slotted barrier. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 124(3), 118-126.
Jacobsen, N.G., Fuhrman, D.R., Fredsøe, J., 2012. A wave generation toolbox for the open-source cfd library: Openfoam®. International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 70(9), 1073-1088.
Jensen, A., Pedersen, G.K., Wood, D.J., 2003. An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 486, 161-188.
Keulegan, G.H., 1948. Gradual damping of solitary waves. Journal of Research of the National Bureau of Standards 40, 487-498.
Kimmoun, O., Branger, H., 2007. A particle image velocimetry investigation on laboratory surf-zone breaking waves over a sloping beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 588, 353-397.
Kobayashi, N., Lawrence, A.R., 2004. Cross-shore sediment transport under breaking solitary waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 109(C3), C03047.
Kobayashi, N., Raichle, A.W., 1994. Irregular wave overtopping of revetments in surf zones. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120(1), 56-73.
Kothe, D.B. et al., 1999. A second-order accurate, linearity-preserving volume tracking algorithm for free surface flows on 3-d unstructured meshes. Proceedings of the 3rd ASME/JSME Joint Fluids Engineering Conference, San Francisco, CA, 1-6.
Kriebel, D.L., 1992. Vertical wave barriers: Wave transmission and wave forces. Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1313-1326.
Krishnakumar, C., Sundar, V., Sannasiraj, S.A., 2010. Hydrodynamic performance of single- and double-wave screens. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 136(1), 59-65.
Lara, J.L., del Jesus, M., Losada, I.J., 2012. Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures: Part ii: Experimental validation. Coastal Engineering 64, 26-46.
Lara, J.L., Garcia, N., Losada, I.J., 2006. Rans modelling applied to random wave interaction with submerged permeable structures. Coastal Engineering 53(5-6), 395-417.
Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., Maza, M., Guanche, R., 2011. Breaking solitary wave evolution over a porous underwater step. Coastal Engineering 58(9), 837-850.
Launder, B.E., Spalding, D.B., 1974. The numerical computation of turbulent flows. Computer Methods in Applied Mechanics and Engineering 3(2), 269-289.
Lee, J.J., Skjelbreia, E., Raichlen, F., 1982. Measurement of velocities in solitary waves. Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division 108(2), 200-218.
Li, Y., Raichlen, F., 2003. Energy balance model for breaking solitary wave runup. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 129(2), 47-59.
Liang, D., Gotoh, H., Khayyer, A., Chen, J.M., 2013. Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and n-wave runup on coast. Applied Ocean Research 42, 144-154.
Lin, C., Chang, S.-C., Ho, T.C., Chang, K.-A., 2006. Laboratory observation of solitary wave propagating over a submerged rectangular dike. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 132(5), 545-554.
Lin, C., Ho, T.-C., Chang, S.-C., Hsieh, S.-C., Chang, K.-A., 2005. Vortex shedding induced by a solitary wave propagating over a submerged vertical plate. International Journal of Heat and Fluid Flow 26(6), 894-904.
Lin, M.-Y., Huang, L.-H., 2010. Vortex shedding from a submerged rectangular obstacle attacked by a solitary wave. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 651, 503.
Lin, P., 2004. A numerical study of solitary wave interaction with rectangular obstacles. Coastal Engineering 51(1), 35-51.
Lin, P., 2008. Numerical modeling of water waves. Taylor and Francis Group, New York, NY.
Lin, P., Chang, K.-A., Liu, P.L.-F., 1999. Runup and rundown of solitary waves on sloping beaches. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 125(5), 247-255.
Lin, P., Karunarathna, S., 2007. Numerical study of solitary wave interaction with porous breakwaters. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 133(5), 352-363.
Lin, P., Li, C.W., 2003. Wave–current interaction with a vertical square cylinder. Ocean Engineering 30(7), 855-876.
Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F., 1998a. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 359, 239-264.
Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F., 1998b. Turbulence transport, vorticity dynamics, and solute mixing under plunging breaking waves in surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research 103(C8), 15677-15694.
Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F., 1999. Internal wave-maker for navier-stokes equations models. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 207-215.
Lin, P., Su, X., 2005. A hydrodynamic study on flow motion with vegetation. Modern Physics Letters B 19, 1659-1662.
Liu, H., Ghidaoui, M.S., Huang, Z., Yuan, Z., Wang, J., 2010. Numerical investigation of the interactions between solitary waves and pile breakwaters using bgk-based methods. Computers & Mathematics with Applications.
Liu, P.L.-F., Abbaspour, M., 1982. Wave scattering by a rigid thin barrier. Journal of the Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Division 108(4), 479-491.
Liu, P.L.-F., Al-Banaa, K., 2004. Solitary wave runup and force on a vertical barrier. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 505, 225-233.
Liu, P.L.-F., Cheng, Y., 2001. A numerical study of the evolution of a solitary wave over a shelf. Physics of Fluids 13(6), 1660.
Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Chang, K.-A., Sakakiyama, T., 1999. Numerical modeling of wave interaction with porous structures. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 322-330.
Liu, P.L.-F. et al., 2005a. Observations by the international tsunami survey team in sri lanka. Science 308(5728), 1595.
Liu, P.L.-F., Simarro, G., Vandever, J., Orfila, A., 2006. Experimental and numerical investigation of viscous effects on solitary wave propagation in a wave tank. Coastal Engineering 53(2–3), 181-190.
Liu, P.L.-F., Synolakis, C.E., Yeh, H.H., 1991. Report on the international workshop on long-wave run-up. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 229, 675-688.
Liu, P.L.-F., Wu, T.-R., Raichlen, F., Synolakis, C.E., Borrero, J.C., 2005b. Runup and rundown generated by three-dimensional sliding masses. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 536, 107-144.
Liu, X., Lin, P., Shao, S.D., 2015. Isph wave simulation by using an internal wave maker. Coastal Engineering 95, 160-170.
Lo, H.-Y., Park, Y.S., Liu, P.L.-F., 2013. On the run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves — an experimental study. Coastal Engineering 80, 1-14.
Losada, I.J., Lara, J., Christensen, E., Garcia, N., 2005. Modelling of velocity and turbulence fields around and within low-crested rubble-mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 52(10-11), 887-913.
Losada, I.J., Lara, J., Guanche, R., Gonzalezondina, J., 2008. Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 55(1), 47-62.
Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., Losada, R., 1994. Wave spectrum scattering by vertical thin barriers. Applied Ocean Research 16(2), 123-128.
Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., Martín, F.L., 1995. Experimental study of wave-induced flow in a porous structure. Coastal Engineering 26(1–2), 77-98.
Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., Roldán, A.J., 1992. Propagation of oblique incident waves past rigid vertical thin barriers. Applied Ocean Research 14(3), 191-199.
Losada, I.J., Patterson, M.D., Losada, M.A., 1997. Harmonic generation past a submerged porous step. Coastal Engineering 31(1–4), 281-304.
Losada, I.J., Silva, R., Losada, M.A., 1996. 3-d non-breaking regular wave interaction with submerged breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 28(1–4), 229-248.
Losada, M.A., Losada, I.J., Roldán, A.J., 1993. Propagation of oblique incident modulated waves past rigid, vertical thin barriers. Applied Ocean Research 15(5), 305-310.
Losada, M.A., Vidal, C., Medina, R., 1989. Experimental study of the evolution of a solitary wave at an abrupt junction. Journal of Geophysical Research 94(C10), 14557-14566.
Lubin, P., Vincent, S., Abadie, S., Caltagirone, J.-P., 2006. Three-dimensional large eddy simulation of air entrainment under plunging breaking waves. Coastal Engineering 53(8), 631-655.
Lynett, P.J., Liu, P.L.-F., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., 2000. Solitary wave interaction with porous breakwaters. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 126(6), 314-322.
Ma, G., Shi, F., Hsiao, S.-C., Wu, Y.-T., 2014. Non-hydrostatic modeling of wave interactions with porous structures. Coastal Engineering 91, 84-98.
Madsen, P.A., Fuhrman, D.R., Schäffer, H.A., 2008. On the solitary wave paradigm for tsunamis. Journal of Geophysical Research 113(C12), C12012.
Madsen, P.A., Schaffer, H.A., 2010. Analytical solutions for tsunami runup on a plane beach: Single waves, n-waves and transient waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 645, 27-57.
Maruyama, T., 2008. Large eddy simulation of turbulent flow around a windbreak. Journal of Wind Engineering and Industrial Aerodynamics 96(10–11), 1998-2006.
Mei, C.C., 1983. The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. Wiley-Interscience.
Mei, C.C., Chan, I.C., Liu, P.L.F., Huang, Z., Zhang, W., 2011. Long waves through emergent coastal vegetation. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 687, 461-491.
Menter, F.R., 1994. Two-equation eddy-viscosity turbulence models for engineering applications. AIAA Journal 32(8), 1598-1605.
Mo, W., Jensen, A., Liu, P.L.-F., 2013. Plunging solitary wave and its interaction with a slender cylinder on a sloping beach. Ocean Engineering 74, 48-60.
MoCowan, J., 1891. On the solitary wave. Philosophical Magazine 32(5), 45-58.
Mori, N., Chang, K.-A., 2003. Introduction to mpiv, Online available at http://www.oceanwave.jp/softwares/mpiv/.
Mori, N., Cox, D.T., Yasuda, T., Mase, H., 2013. Overview of the 2011 tohoku earthquake tsunami damage and its relation to coastal protection along the sanriku coast. Earthquake Spectra 29(S1), S127-S143.
Mori, N., Takahashi, T., Yasuda, T., Yanagisawa, H., 2011. Survey of 2011 tohoku earthquake tsunami inundation and run-up. Geophyscial Research Letters 38, L00G14.
Orszag, S.A., Staroselsky, I., Flannery, W.S., Zhang, Y., 1996. Introduction to renormalization group modeling of turbulence. In: T.B. Gatski, M.Y. Hussaini and J.L. Lumley (Editors), Simulation and modeling of turbulent flows. Oxford University Press.
Oumeraci, H., Koether, G., 2009. Hydraulic performance of a submerged wave absorber for coastal protection. In: P. Lynett (Editor), Non-linear wave dynamics. World Scientific Publishing, pp. 31-65.
Park, Y.S., 2009. Seabed dynamics and breaking waves. Ph.D. Thesis, Cornell University.
Park, Y.S., Liu, P.L.-F., Chan, I.-C., 2012. Contact line dynamics and boundary layer flow during reflection of a solitary wave. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 707, 307-330.
Peng, W., Lee, K.-H., Mizutani, N., 2012. Application of direct-forcing ib-vof method to the simulation of wave deformation by submerged structures. Journal of Coastal Research, 658-670.
Peregrine, D.H., 1966. Calculations of the development of an undular bore. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 25(2), 321-330.
Pope, S.B., 1975. A more general effective-viscosity hypothesis. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 72, 331-340.
Raffel, M., Willert, C.E., Kompenhans, J., 1998. Particle image velocimetry. Springer.
Rageh, O.S., Koraim, A.S., 2010. Hydraulic performance of vertical walls with horizontal slots used as breakwater. Coastal Engineering 57(8), 745-756.
Rodi, W., 1980. Turbulence models and their application in hydraulics: A state-of-the-art review. IAHR publication, Delft, The Netherlands.
Rossetto, T., Allsop, W., Charvet, I., Robinson, D.I., 2011. Physical modelling of tsunami using a new pneumatic wave generator. Coastal Engineering 58(6), 517-527.
Rueben, M. et al., 2011. Optical measurements of tsunami inundation through an urban waterfront modeled in a large-scale laboratory basin. Coastal Engineering 58(3), 229-238.
Ryu, Y., Chang, K.-A., Lim, H.-J., 2005. Use of bubble image velocimetry for measurement of plunging wave impinging on structure and associated greenwater. Measurement Science and Technology 16, 1945-1853.
Sakakiyama, T., Kajima, R., 1992. Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave interacting with permeable breakwaters. Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, 1517-1530.
Sakakiyama, T., Liu, P.L.-F., 2001. Laboratory experiments for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a breakwater. Coastal Engineering 44(2), 117-139.
Sawaragi, T., Deguchi, I., 1992. Waves on permeable layers. Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, 1531-1544.
Seabra-Santos, F.J., Renouard, D.P., Temperville, A.M., 1987. Numerical and experimental study of the transformation of a solitary wave over a shelf or isolated obstacle. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 176, 117-134.
Seiffert, B., Hayatdavoodi, M., Ertekin, R.C., 2014. Experiments and computations of solitary-wave forces on a coastal-bridge deck. Part i: Flat plate. Coastal Engineering 88, 194-209.
Shao, S.D., 2005. Sph simulation of solitary wave interaction with a curtain-type breakwater. Journal of Hydraulic Research 43, 366-375.
Shao, S.D., 2010. Incompressible sph flow model for wave interactions with porous media. Coastal Engineering 57(3), 304-316.
Shen, L., Chan, E.-S., 2010. Application of a combined ib–vof model to wave–structure interactions. Applied Ocean Research 32(1), 40-48.
Shih, T.H., Zhu, J., Lumley, J.L., 1996. Calculation of wall-bounded complex flows and free shear flows. International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 23, 1133-1144.
Silva, R., Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., 2000. Reflection and transmission of tsunami waves by coastal structures. Applied Ocean Research 22, 215-223.
Smagorinsky, J., 1963. General circulation experiments with the primitive equations. Month Weather Review 91, 99-164.
Stiassnie, M., Peregrine, D.H., 1980. Shoaling of finite-amplitude surface waves on water of slowly-varying depth. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 97(4), 783-805.
Synolakis, C.E., Bernard, E.N., 2006. Tsunami science before and beyond boxing day 2004. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 364(1845), 2231-2265.
Tadepalli, S., Synolakis, C.E., 1996. Model for the leading waves of tsunamis. Physical Review Letters 77(10), 2141-2144.
Tanaka, H., Sumer, B.M., Lodahl, C., 1998. Theoretical and experimental investigation on laminar boundary layers under cnoidal wave motion. Coastal Engineering Journal 40(1), 81-98.
Tanaka, M., 1986. The stability of solitary waves. Physics of Fluids 29(3), 650-655.
Tang, C.-J., Chang, J.-H., 1998. Flow separation during solitary wave passing over submerged obstacle. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering 124(7), 742-749.
Thomson, G.G., 2000. Wave transmission through multi-layered wave screens. Master Thesis, Queen's University, Canada.
Ting, C.-L., Lin, M.-C., Cheng, C.-Y., 2004. Porosity effects on non-breaking surface waves over permeable submerged breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 50(4), 213-224.
Torres-Freyermuth, A., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2010. Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach. Coastal Engineering 57(3), 317-330.
Torres-Freyermuth, A., Puleo, J.A., Pokrajac, D., 2013. Modeling swash-zone hydrodynamics and shear stresses on planar slopes using reynolds-averaged navier–stokes equations. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 118(2), 1019-1033.
Tsai, C.-P., Chen, H.-B., Lee, F.-C., 2006. Wave transformation over submerged permeable breakwater on porous bottom. Ocean Engineering 33(11–12), 1623-1643.
Tsai, C.-P., Yen, C.-C., Lin, C., 2014. Simulations on skimming flow over a vertical drop pool. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 140(7), 04014044.
Ursell, F., 1947. The effect of a fixed vertical barrier on surface waves in deep water. Mathematical Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society 43(3), 374-382.
van Gent, M.R.A., 1994. The modelling of wave action on and in coastal structures. Coastal Engineering 22(3–4), 311-339.
van Gent, M.R.A., 1995a. Porous flow through rubble-mound material. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 121(3), 176-181.
van Gent, M.R.A., 1995b. Wave interaction with permeable coastal structures. Ph.D. Thesis, Delft University of Technology.
Wang, S.S., Stuhmiller, J.H., 1980. Modified partial-cell method for free-surface incompressible flow simulations. Numerical Heat Transfer 3(2), 209-223.
Wiegel, R.L., 1960. Transmission of waves past a rigid vertical thin barrier. Journal of Waterway and Harbors Division 86, 1-12.
Wilcox, D.C., 1988. Reassessment of the scale-determining equation for advanced turbulence models. AIAA Journal 26(11), 1299-1310.
Wu, N.-J., Tsay, T.-K., Chen, Y.-Y., 2014a. Generation of stable solitary waves by a piston-type wave maker. Wave Motion 51(2), 240-255.
Wu, T.-R., 2004. A numerical study of three-dimensional breaking waves and turbulence effects. Ph.D. Thesis, Cornell University.
Wu, T.Y., Wang, X., Qu, W., 2005. On solitary waves. Part 2 a unified perturbation theory for higher-order waves. Acta Mechanica Sinica 21(6), 515-530.
Wu, Y.-T., Hsiao, S.-C., 2013a. Propagation of solitary waves over a submerged permeable breakwater. Coastal Engineering 81, 1-18.
Wu, Y.-T., Hsiao, S.-C., 2013b. Turbulence induced by a solitary wave propagating over a submerged object using particle image velocimetry. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 65(1), 416-421.
Wu, Y.-T., Hsiao, S.-C., Huang, Z.-C., Hwang, K.-S., 2012. Propagation of solitary waves over a bottom-mounted barrier. Coastal Engineering 62, 31-47.
Wu, Y.-T., Hsiao, S.C., Lin, Y.-Y., 2013. Numerical study of solitary wave interaction with a submerged slotted barrier. Journal of Coastal and Ocean Engineering 13, 1-13.
Wu, Y.-T., Yeh, C.-L., Hsiao, S.-C., 2014b. Three-dimensional numerical simulation on the interaction of solitary waves and porous breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 85, 12-29.
Yakhot, V., Orszag, S.A., 1986. Renormalization-group analysis of turbulence. Physical Review Letters 57(14), 1722-1724.
Yasuda, T., Mutsuda, H., Mizutani, N., 1997. Kinematics of overturning solitary waves and their relations to breaker types. Coastal Engineering 29, 317-346.
Yeganeh-Bakhtiary, A., Hajivalie, F., Hashemi-Javan, A., 2010. Steady streaming and flow turbulence in front of vertical breakwater with wave overtopping. Applied Ocean Research 32(1), 91-102.
Yeh, H.H., Ghazali, A., Marton, I., 1989. Experimental study of bore run-up. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 206, 563-578.
Young, C.-C., Wu, C.H., Liu, W.-C., Kuo, J.-T., 2009. A higher-order non-hydrostatic σ model for simulating non-linear refraction–diffraction of water waves. Coastal Engineering 56(9), 919-930.
Zhang, J.-S., Zhang, Y., Jeng, D.-S., Liu, P.L.-F., Zhang, C., 2014. Numerical simulation of wave–current interaction using a rans solver. Ocean Engineering 75, 157-164.
Zhang, J.-S., Zheng, J., Jeng, D.-S., Wang, G., 2012. Numerical simulation of solitary wave induced flow motion around a permeable submerged breakwater. Journal of Applied Mathematics 2012, 1-14.
Zhang, Q., Liu, P.L.-F., 2008. A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores. Coastal Engineering 55(12), 1113-1134.
Zhao, B.B., Ertekin, R.C., Duan, W.Y., Hayatdavoodi, M., 2014. On the steady solitary-wave solution of the green–naghdi equations of different levels. Wave Motion 51(8), 1382-1395.
Zhao, X., Wang, B., Liu, H., 2012. Characteristics of tsunami motion and energy budget during runup and rundown processes over a plane beach. Physics of Fluids 24(6), 062107-26.
Zhunang, F., Lee, J.J., 1996. A viscous rotational model for wave overtopping over marine structure. Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2178-2191.