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研究生: 李嘉文
Lee, Chia-Wen
論文名稱: 亞重力波生成之實驗研究
Measurements on the Generation of Infra-gravity Waves
指導教授: 黃煌煇
Hwung, Hwung-Hweng
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 工學院 - 水利及海洋工程學系
Department of Hydraulic & Ocean Engineering
論文出版年: 2005
畢業學年度: 93
語文別: 中文
論文頁數: 46
中文關鍵詞: 淺灘動盪亞重力波
外文關鍵詞: surf beat, infragravity wave
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  •   為了探討亞重力波生成的特性,本文乃在國立成功大學水工試驗所之大型斷面水槽(300m*5m*5.2m)進行實驗量測分析。本文將坡度1/10及1/20的規則波及三波試驗以無因次之參數去作分析比較。文中以相同相對水深之規則波試驗去做比較,在頻率方面,波浪尖銳度改變,其截斷頻率及亞重力波頻率無太大的改變,而坡度改變,亞重力波頻率會出現移至低頻的現象。而以相對初始波浪尖銳度去比較,發現週期越長,截斷頻率與亞重力波頻率也有移至低頻的現象。且分別找出坡度1/10及1/20規則波、三波之截斷頻率、亞重力波最大能量頻率與主頻之比希望能瞭解各頻率之間之關係。在能量方面,亞重力波能量會出現週期性的起伏現象,而初始波浪尖銳度增大,亞重力波能量起伏會跟著變小。而水深變淺導致碎波時,波浪主頻能量則會大幅衰減,亞重力波能量會大幅增加。且三波作用下的截斷頻率及亞重力波最大能量頻率試驗分析結果顯示較規則波分布散亂,表示副頻會影響截斷頻率及亞重力波最大能量頻率分布。而至於其他坡度的比較分析將於日後實驗完成後再進行探討,以瞭解亞重力波的生成機制。

      In order to investigate the characteristics of infra-gravity waves, a series of systematic and well- controlled regular wave and imposed side-bands are conducted on 1/10 and 1/20 slope bottoms in a super wave flume(300m *5m*5.2m) at Tainan Hydrulics Laboratory (THL).
      In the regular wave tests at the same of slope bottom, the cut off frequency and the frequency of the maximum energy of infra-gravity wave are not changed for different initial wave steepness. But the frequency of infra-gravity wave will move to lower frequency if the slope becomes mild. From the comparison of the regular wave tests at the same of initial wave steepness, the cut off frequency and the frequency of infra-gravity wave moved to lower frequency if the wave period became longer. It is noticed that as waves break on the slope bottom, the energy of fundamental frequency will decrease substantially and the energy of infra-gravity wave will relatively increase. It is also found that the cut off frequency and the frequency of infra-gravity wave in the tests of side-bands are more disordered and complicated than in the tests of regular waves due to the effects of sidebands.
      Further, the relationships between the cut off frequency, the frequency of the maximum energy of infra-gravity wave, and the fundamental frequency are also obtained in this paper.

    第一章 緒論 ……………………………………………………… 1 1-1 研究目的 …………………………………………………………… 1 1-2 文獻回顧 .………………………………………………………… 2 1-3 本文組織 …………………………………………………………… 4 第二章 實驗設備、資料收集與分析方法 ……………………… 5 2-1 試驗設備及儀器 ………………………………………………… 5 2-2 試驗佈置 ……………………………………………………… 6 2-3資料收集與分析方法 …………………………………………… 9 第三章 結果與討論 ……………………………………………… 11 3-1亞重力波頻域之選定 …………………………………………… 11 3-1-1斜坡之試驗條件 …………………………………………… 12 3-2水位與亞重力波時序列之現象觀察比較 ………………………… 14 3-3亞重力波頻域之差異比較 ………………………………………… 17 3-3-1規則波相同相對水深、不同波浪尖銳度之試驗比較 ……… 17 3-3-2三波作用相同主頻、不同波浪尖銳度之試驗比較…………… 22 3-3-3規則波相同波浪尖銳度、不同相對水深之試驗比較………… 26 3-3-4亞重力波主頻頻率、截斷頻率與初始波浪尖銳度之關係 . 32 3-4主頻與亞重力波主頻能量之差異比較 ………………………… 36 第四章 結論與建議……………………………………………………… 43 參考文獻…………………………………………………………………. 44

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