本文利用Dally等人 (1985) 提議之水躍模式探討波浪在沙洲型海灘斷面(bar beach profile) 碎波及其碎波後能量消散和波浪變形。文中先由能量守恆方程式推導波浪在沙洲型海灘碎波後波浪變形之解析解，依許等人 (1998) 之研究，沙洲型海灘斷面以五次多項式表示，在極端情況分別檢驗在斜坡海灘及Dean 剖面 (1977) 波浪衰減之情形。根據本文所得到之碎波帶內能量消散公式，分別探討式中參數 (如能量衰減係數、碎波帶寬度以及碎波指標) 對於碎波帶內波浪能量影響。

This paper extends the fifth-order polynomial theory of Hsu et al. (1998) for describing the bar beach profile. The hydraulic jump of Dally et al. (1985) and the energy conservation law are incorporated into the present model to account for wave breaking phenomenon and corresponding energy dissipation and wave variation properties. In particular, the wave energy decay characteristics on the cases of sloping beaches and Dean profile are examined and discussed, respectively. Reasonably good agreements are both achieved. Furthermore, the wave parameter effects in the present method on wave energy dissipation properties in the surf-zone are investigated, including energy decay coefficient, width of breaking zone and breaking index.

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