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研究生: 黃嘉緯
Huang, Jia-wei
論文名稱: 由深海浮標資料分析臺灣東部海域風浪及湧浪之特性
Wind waves and swells characteristics derived from the deep-ocean data buoy at eastern water of Taiwan
指導教授: 黃清哲
Huang, Ching-Jer
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 工學院 - 水利及海洋工程學系
Department of Hydraulic & Ocean Engineering
論文出版年: 2013
畢業學年度: 101
語文別: 中文
論文頁數: 53
中文關鍵詞: 深海資料浮標完全成熟波浪湧浪波齡P-M波譜方向波譜修正型Wallops波譜
外文關鍵詞: Deep ocean data buoy, fully-developed sea, swell, wave age, P-M spectrum, modify Wallops spectrum
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  • 中央氣象局在台灣東部海域300公里外、水深5600m處設置有一深海資料浮標。本文選定此一浮標所測得2010年9月26日至30日穩定風場時段之波浪資料加以分析。根據示性波高、平均波浪週期、及波齡等資料,篩選分類出強烈湧浪特性的第一波齡時區、湧浪及風浪混合的第二波齡時區、及成熟風浪的第三波齡時區。並依聯合國氣象組織(WMO)於1998年所建議之波浪分析及預報準則,得到馬勒卡颱風造成湧浪之特性。資料分析顯示第三個波齡時區的波浪中仍含有微弱湧浪,之後隨著風浪逐漸明顯;風浪能譜之尖峰頻率由0.2Hz移往0.16Hz。在9月30日22時浮標所測得波浪之波譜與P-M波譜尖峰頻率及能量分佈幾乎相同,顯示從當時起波浪型態趨近完全成熟風浪。此外,本文也探討2011年7月16日至2011年7月18日間,從兩千公里外的馬鞍颱風,傳遞到浮標位置時其湧浪譜之特性。當湧浪傳遞過來時,其尖峰頻率為0.07Hz,而後因當地風場產生之風浪與湧浪結合後,波譜出現雙峰現象,低頻部分之能量即為湧浪造成之能量,高頻部分之能量則為風浪產生之能量。當湧浪遠離浮標,只剩風浪產生之能量,而波譜也轉為單峰型態。由挑選出之實測湧浪譜與修正型Wallops波譜(Goda, 1999)做比較,顯示出台灣東部海域湧浪波譜型態適用修正型Wallops波譜,而m值約3~4。

    The Central Weather Bureau of Taiwan has deployed an ocean data buoy at the 400 km offshore of eastern Taiwan where the water depth is 5600m. This open area is suitable for the existence of fully developed waves, which further helps explore the wind wave characteristic in the presence of swells. A stable wind prevailed during the period of 26th of September to 30th of September, 2010, following the wind data acquired from the data buoy. The wave data during this period were sorted according to the significant wave hight, average wave period and wave age into three parts, i.e. first wave age with strong swells, the second wave age with wind wave and swell matures and the third wave age with fully-developed waves. Following WMO’s guideline of wave analysis and forecasting analysis in 1998, we analyzed the swells out of Typhoon Malakas. A weak swell in third wave age is identified, and later on wind wave is becoming most-obvious. Finally, the peak frequency of wind-wave spectra shifts gradually from 0.2Hz to 0.16Hz. At 22 o’clock on 30th of September, the wave spectral properties derived from data buoy matched well with the peak frequency and energy distribution of corresponding P-M spectrum, indicating that the waves are approaching fully-developed sea. In addition, a swells out of Typhoon Ma-on prevailed during the period of 16th of July to 18th of July, 2011, following the data acquired from the data buoy. The peak frequency of swell is 0.07Hz. Swell is generally of a much lower frequency than a young wind sea, so in this case the two wave systems are well separated, both in frequency. a low-frequency spectrum oriented in typhoon representing the swell and a much broader spectrum at higher frequencies oriented towards westerly directions, representing the locally generated wind sea. The one-dimensional spectrum obtained by integrating this two-dimensional spectrum over the directions is equally distinctive because the swell and the local wind sea are well separated in frequency. When the swell was away from the buoy, the one-dimensional spectrum change to the one peak spectrum which only remain local wind energy. Compared the results of previous study with the modified Wallops spectral, we find that m value of modify Wallops spectral, which is of about 3 to 4 is well applicable to the in eastern ocean of Taiwan.

    摘要 ii Abstract iii 誌謝 v 目錄 vi 圖目錄 viii 表目錄 x 第一章 序論 1 1-1研究動機 1 1-2前人研究 2 1-3本文組織架構 6 第二章 資料彙集 7 2-1調查海域背景介紹 7 2-2測站 7 2-2-1觀測儀器及資料擷取系統 8 2-2-2能源系統 10 2-2-3傳輸系統 10 2-2-4殼體及錨繫系統 10 2-3浮標資料檢驗 12 第三章 資料分析 14 3-1浮標資料分析 14 3-2 波譜 18 3-2-1 Pierson-Moskowitz (P-M)波譜 18 3-2-2 修正型JONSWAP波譜 18 3-2-3 修正型Wallops波譜 19 3-2-4 方向波譜 20 3-3波譜資料篩選 23 3-3-1穩定風域挑選 23 3-3-2 分離風湧浪 23 3-3-3 相關性 24 3-4波浪傳遞時間 25 3-5傅立葉轉換原理 26 第四章 結果與討論 27 4-1穩定風域挑選 27 4-2風浪與湧浪之區別 28 4-3颱風所造成湧浪之傳遞 30 4-4 完全成熟風浪 35 4-5 湧浪 40 第五章 結論與建議 50 5-1結論 50 5-2建議 51 參考文獻 52

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