真實的海洋波浪是由各種不同成分的規則波列所組合而成，欲掌握這複雜且不規則的海洋波動現象，本研究由規則波為基礎，藉由實驗室模擬規則波實驗取得實驗數據，採用波壓與波高轉換函數、波流與波壓轉換函數、經驗校正公式、因次分析四個方法，進行後續的資料分析與處理後，整合討論水中波壓、波高和流速三者間之相關性。
由實驗結果得知，經驗校正係數N隨著週期T遞增而變大，得到經驗校正係數N與週期T間定量變化之關係。本研究與Bergan, P.O.等人(1968)的實驗相互比較，發現當週期小於T=0.8(s)以下時，則無法再使用一階線性理論來預測波壓。由結果顯示，當轉換函數加上流速項後，實驗波高與理論計算所得波高差異仍大，既使加上流速項亦仍無法準確預測水位變化。
而本實驗直接運用規則波資料，採用因次分析的方法，找出規則波波高與波壓的轉換函數之經驗公式，此經驗公式與其他學者的量測結果比較，可以視為實驗室進行規則波實驗之通用公式。

A series of ocean waves are generated by several regular waves of various sources. To understand the complex and irregular ocean phenomena, this research is based on regular waves. Modeling regular waves to laboratory experiments, and deal with experiment data onto four methods. These methods are transforming the wave pressure to wave height, transforming the wave pressure on velocity of flow, empirical correction formula and dimensional analysis. Base on the experiments with data, to investigate the relationships of wave pressure versus wave height and velocity of flow.

The experimental results showed that the empirical correction coefficient N decreases to decreasing period, being greater than T=1(s) for gravity waves. Compare with Bergan, P.O. et al (1968) this research finds the period less than T=0.8(s) for short gravity waves, which it is not available used first-order linear theory to predict the wave pressure. The results showed that transforms function add velocity of flow item, the experimental wave height and theoretical wave height difference vary considerably. Even add velocity to the transform function, wave height still show inexact data onto the equation, and can’t predict surface water.

This study directed applies to experiment with regular wave data, and used dimensional analysis to find the empirical correction formula. The results showed that the new empirical correction formula could apply to all regular wave experiments.

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