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研究生: 黃李森
Huang, Li-Sen
論文名稱: 城市與酒樓:日治臺南醉仙閣經營實態之研究
City and Drinking Parlors:A Study of the Operation of Tainan drinking parlors "Tsui Hsien Ko" during the Japanese Rule.
指導教授: 陳文松
Chen, Wen-Sung
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 文學院 - 歷史學系
Department of History
論文出版年: 2019
畢業學年度: 107
語文別: 中文
論文頁數: 103
中文關鍵詞: 酒樓醉仙閣經營藝妲臺南市
外文關鍵詞: Drinking parlor, Tsui Hsien Ko, business, Geishas, Tainan
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  •   酒樓是日治時期臺人的宴飲娛樂與社交空間,在這個空間裡包含了料理筵席的享用、藝妲的陪酒與詩人的吟詩唱酬。「醉仙閣」為日治時期臺南酒樓,承接了日治初期就在臺南營業的「醉仙樓」而來。
      醉仙樓是日治初期到大正年間臺南市的本島人酒樓,經營有成後另開分店,在臺南酒樓業中頗負盛名。醉仙樓主逝世後,本店改為旅館業,分店則由醉仙閣接續作為酒樓營業。醉仙閣經營者高氏與臺南市的辛西淮、黃欣等仕紳關係良好,更與日本內地人交際頻繁,顯示出經營者的交際手腕對酒樓經營的影響。另外,醉仙閣裡頭所藏寓的藝妲亦是醉仙閣的特色,除了展現在酒樓裡的風情萬種,醉仙閣的藝妲更曾因美貌出眾,被評選為臺南美人。
      醉仙閣曾在臺南市裡遷移數次,最後一次遷徙位在臺南最繁榮的銀座通,使醉仙閣除了具有料理、酒與藝妲等酒樓所提供的項目之外,知名度與所在地更形成傳遞資訊的功能,如交通安全宣導與軍事演習。然而處在熱鬧繁榮之地,雖對經營帶來了不少正面影響,但最後卻也因此導致醉仙閣歇業。
      本文首先梳理醉仙閣經營者的生平,以及經營者在臺南市的人際手腕。接著從醉仙閣「酒樓」的身分與料理、酒與藝妲等消費項目之間的關聯,以了解「消費項目」之於「經營者」的價值,也因而連結到「消費者」—「仕紳與文人」這個討論要素,藉由既有研究對消費項目與酒樓的關聯,用以討論醉仙閣是如何與消費項目、消費者的互動。最後,作為臺南市的眾多酒樓之一,這間「酒樓」是蘊含何種特質,以及對日治時期臺南市而言又具有什麼意涵。

    SUMMARY

      The 'drinking parlor' was an important venue for holding banquets, entertaining guests, and socializing with one's contemporaries during the Japanese period in Tainan, which comprised elements of enjoying fine dining with friends, being accompanied by female entertainers, and chanting of impromptu poems by the literati.
    Tsui Hsien Lou (Merry Immortals House), one of the island's earliest upscale restaurants or 'drinking parlors,' was operated by some Tainan locals from the late 1890s to the mid-1920s. Its proprietor also opened a subsidiary parlor by the name of Tsui Hsien Ko (Merry Immortals Pavilion), and both places made their fame amongst their peers in Tainan. After the passing-away of their first-generation owner, Mr. T. H. Tang, the House was transformed into a hotel whereas the Tsui Hsien Ko continued its operation as an 'haute cuisine' restaurant. Mr. Kao, new boss of the Tsui Hsien Ko, forged amicable relations with local men of prominence such as, Xin Xi'hu'ai and Huang Xin, and was on good terms with influential Japanese gentlemen who had just arrived at their newly acquired colony of Taiwan, an apparent manifestation of Kao's diplomatic skills and flexible manoeuvring. Moreover, female entertainers retained by the Tsui Hsien Ko, some of whom were geisha girls by profession, were a notable feature of the parlor. These ladies not only displayed their charms at work but also won a number of Tainan beauty contest awards because of their gorgeous appearance and elegant disposition.
    Tsui Hsien Ko had been relocated several times until it finally moved to a prime location on Ginza Toori (Ginza Boulevard) at the intersection of today's Zhongzheng Road and Ximen Road. Besides obvious gourmet goods and services, that is, Taiwanese 'grande cuisine,' quality beer and wine, and female entertainer's company that were on offer, the Tsui Hsien Ko 's reputation and locale also made it an appropriate venue for propagating the Japanese imperial government's edicts such as, traffic laws, fire safety regulations, exposition announcements, military exercises, air raid drills, and general mobilization orders. Restrictions imposed by the general mobilization act eventually ground the parlor to a halt and saw its closure in 1939.
    This thesis first explores the lives of the successive main stakeholders of the Tsui Hsien Ko, namely, T.H. Tang, T. Kao, J.S. Kao, and T.S. Kao, as well as tries to determine their social contacts in Tainan. Secondly, we would like to establish the link between its identity as a drinking parlor, its quality foods and beverages, and its entertainment services; thus ascertain how the Tsui Hsien Ko 's items of customer expenditures associate with the underlining values of the entrepreneur. Thirdly, we hope to examine the interaction between the parlor and two special categories of consumers - the gentry and the literati. To sum up, this dissertation aims to offer some insightful perspective of the 'drinking parlor' and its significance in shaping Tainan City's culinary culture.

    Introduction

      The Merry Immortals House, one of Taiwan's earliest upscale restaurants or 'drinking parlors,' was operated by some Tainan locals from the late 1890s to the mid-1920s. Its proprietor also opened a subsidiary parlor by the name of The Merry Immortals Pavilion, and both places achieved fame amongst their peers in Tainan.
    The Pavilion was relocated several times until it finally settled at a prime location on Ginza Toori (Ginza Boulevard) at the intersection of today's Zhongzheng Road and Ximen Road. Besides the usual gourmet goods and services, Taiwanese 'grande cuisine,' quality beer and wine, and the company of female entertainers, the Pavilion's reputation and locale also made it an appropriate venue for propagating the Japanese imperial government's edicts.

    Materials and Methods

      This essay attempts to profile the owners of the Pavilion and their managerial styles through analysis of Tainan household registry files, business directory information, and newspaper reports.
    Household registration documents helped ascertain the successive owners' dates of birth and death as well as the exact times and related details of business relocations. The business directory assisted in the search for store classifications, addresses, telephone numbers, and holder's names. Newspaper articles revealed some relevant matters, such as transfers of management rights and inauguration events.
    Descendants of the various proprietors were also contacted in order to obtain old photographs, which could potentially provide new insights into the Pavilion's colorful past.
    In addition, copies of the original restaurant receipts were acquired, which enabled reconstruction of the gourmet dishes that were offered at the Pavilion.
    Female entertainers always played an important role in facilitating the drinking parlor business in Tainan. This thesis attempts to present the true face of these women through discussion of the contemporary social in which they dwelled, as well as depictions and photographs discovered in the 'Three Six Nine Petit Journals.' Literary pieces on the Pavilion found in published novels that were written by significant men of letters and prominent members of the gentry class were also excellent sources of information.

    Results and Discussion

      The major research findings in relation to the Pavilion are as follows:
    Chapter 1
    1.1 The process of transformation from the House to the Pavilion, including staff and location changes.
    1.2 A probe into the social connections of one of the major stakeholders, Mr. Kao, through examination of various photographs and reasonable deduction.
    1.3 Background information related to the Pavilion - the status quo of Tainan's drinking parlor business in which it was an active participant.
    Chapter 2
    2.1 The background, living environment, and management of the female entertainers at the House and the Pavilion.
    2.2 Categorization and analysis of the currently available written articles and photographs of the parlor entertainers in Tainan; changes in the local entertainment environment; how the media forged the public image of these women; how Tainan citizens perceived them.
    Chapter 3
    3.1 Analysis of the different types of customers that frequented the Pavilion, including differentiating individual patronage from group attendance; comparison of Tainan's 'haute cuisine' with its Taiwanese counterpart.
    3.2 The historical image and significance of the Pavilion; how travel writing influenced the course of the Pavilion's history.
    3.3 The formation and transformation of the Pavilion as a functioning entity in the Tainan metropolis setting; besides its function as a public space, how the Pavilion interacted with the city with respect to urban planning, transportation networking, architectural design, and travel attraction.

    Conclusions

      Founded by T.H. Tang in the early Japanese period, The Merry Immortals House forged a business scale and social reputation that laid a strong foundation for its successor, The Merry Immortals Pavilion. Through the constant diligence and warm-hearted hospitality of the three Kaos at different stages of the parlor's development, the Pavilion's achievements reached their culmination in the 1930s Tainan.
    The Pavilion's provision of Taiwanese 'grande cuisine,' gourmet beer and wine, and the services of notable entertainers helped shape and redefine the drinking parlor industry in Tainan. Moreover, the female entertainers in some ways assisted in raising the Pavilion's social status and enhanced Tainan's image as a city.
    A top-notch restaurant not only brought visitors a positive metropolitan image of Tainan but also helped to improve its tourism. In addition, the upgrading of Taiwan's domestic transportation and urban planning also contributed to promoting Tainan as a travel destination.
    Unfortunately, the Pavilion's ideal location eventually made it a prized military target that hastened its closure relative to its counterparts in Tainan, although its original building is still intact today. It is hoped that this dissertation can shed some light on the future of culinary service in Tainan, and contribute to "an unending dialogue between the present and the past" (words quoted from E. H. Carr's) for the betterment of Tainan City.

    緒論 1 第一節 研究動機與目的 1 第二節 研究回顧 5 第三節 研究方法 8 第四節 章節安排 10 第一章 從醉仙樓到醉仙閣 11 第一節 樓閣變遷:從醉仙樓到醉仙閣 11 第二節 高氏的經營與人際關係 20 第三節 日治時期臺南市酒樓的情況與競爭 29 小結 41 第二章 醉仙樓/閣裡的藝妲 43 第一節、 醉仙樓與北妓 44 第二節、 醉仙閣中的藝妲 48 小結 62 第三章 城市中的公共空間與酒樓功能 64 第一節 何者的消費空間 64 第二節 文人筆下醉仙樓/閣的形象與意義 69 第三節 城市中的功能形成與轉變 77 小結 86 結論 88 徵引書目 91 附錄 98

    一、 檔案
    《臺灣總督府檔案》,國史館臺灣文獻館。
    《臺灣總督府府(官)報》,國史館臺灣文獻館。
    《臺灣總督府職員錄》,中央研究院臺灣史研究所。
    臺南市中西區戶政事務所,日據時期戶籍資料(本町派出所)。
    臺南市中西區戶政事務所,日據時期戶籍資料(本籍0080、0081)。

    二、 報紙
    《三六九小報》1930-1935
    《臺南新報》1921-1936
    《臺南廳報》1916、1919
    《臺灣日日新報》 1905-1941
    《臺灣日報》1937
    《臺灣民報》1924-1932

    三、 史料
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    四、 專書
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    五、 論文
    (一) 期刊論文
    王鴻泰,〈從消費的空間到空間的消費-明清城市中的酒樓與茶館〉,《新史學》第11卷第3期(臺北:新史學,2000.9),頁1-48。
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    江寶釵,〈日治時期台灣藝旦養成教育之書寫研究──以「三六九小報」為觀察場域〉,《中正大學中文學術年刊》第6期(嘉義:國立中正學中國文學系,2004.12),頁29-63。
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    邱雅芳,〈殖民地的隱喻:以佐藤春夫的台灣旅行書寫為中心〉,《中外文學》第34卷11期(臺北:國立臺灣大學出版中心,2006),頁103-130。
    姚政志,〈《三六九小報》中的台灣藝妲(1930-1935)〉,《政大史粹》(臺北;國立政治大學歷史學系,2004),頁37-90。
    張曉旻,〈日治時期臺灣性病防治政策的展開〉,《臺灣史研究》第20卷第2期(臺北:中央研究院臺灣史研究所,2013),頁81-94。
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    陳全永,〈臺南州方面委員總會概況〉,《社會事業の友》第72期(臺北:台灣社會事業協會,1934),頁77-83。
    陳芝蓉,〈左極樂,右地獄:日治時期臺灣「左側通行」〉,《臺灣學研究》第18期(臺北:國立臺灣圖書館,2015.12),頁53-98
    曾久晏,〈《三六九小報》與《風月》報刊中的女性影像〉,《藝術論壇》第6期(臺北:國立臺灣師範大學美術學系暨美術研究所,2009),頁64-84
    曾品滄,〈從花廳到酒樓:清末至日治初期臺灣公共空間的形成與擴展(1895-1911)〉,《中國飲食文化》第7卷第1期(臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會,2011),頁89-142。
    曾品滄,〈鄉土食和山水亭:戰爭期間「臺灣料理」的發展(1937-1945)〉,《中國飲食文化》第9卷第1期(臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會,2013.4),頁113-156。
    曾品滄,〈餐桌上的戰爭—日治末期臺灣的食物配給、黑市與殖民地社會〉,《新史學》第28卷第4期,臺北:新史學,2017。
    黃偉嘉,〈從《臺南廳公文書》再探討臺南市町名改正〉,《臺灣文獻》第66卷第1期(南投:國史館臺灣文獻館,2015),頁169-179。
    鄭安佑、徐明福、吳秉聲,〈日治時期臺南市(1920-1941)「都市空間—社會經濟」變遷——指向經濟的都市現代化過程〉,《建築學報》第85期(臺北:臺灣建築學會,2013),頁17-37。
    盧嘉興,〈記臺南固園二雅之黃茂笙、黃谿荃昆仲(上)〉,《古今談》第43期(臺南:崇文行印務局,1968.9.25),頁9-10。
    盧嘉興,〈記臺南府城詩壇領袖趙雲石喬梓〉,《臺灣文獻》第26卷第3期(南投:國史館臺灣文獻館,1975),頁60-111。
    櫻井齊,〈社會事業としての臺南庶民信用組合の沿革及現況〉,《社會事業の友》第3期(臺北:臺灣社會事業協會,1929),頁20-21。

    (二) 專書論文
    李振華,〈臺灣啤酒史〉,《臺灣經濟史八集》,收入:《臺灣研究叢刊》第71種(臺北:臺灣銀行經濟研究室,1949),頁168。
    邱雅芳,〈荒廢美的系譜:試探佐藤春夫〈女誡扇綺譚〉與西川滿〈赤崁記〉〉,《文學與社會學術研討會 : 2004青年文學會議》(臺南:國家臺灣文學館,2004),頁137-164。
    曾品滄,〈從「平樂遊」到「江山樓」:日治中期臺灣酒樓公共空間意涵的轉型(1912-1937)〉,收入林玉茹主編,《比較視野下的臺灣商業傳統》,頁519-549。
    劉澤民,〈臺灣市街町名改正之探討——以臺灣總督府檔案相關資料為範圍〉,《臺灣地名研究成果學術研討會論文集》(南投:國史館,2008),頁126-166。

    (三) 學位論文
    岩村益典,《日治時期臺灣啤酒專賣之研究》,臺北:國立臺灣師範大學碩士論文,2010。
    張志樺,《情慾消費於日本殖民體制下所呈現之文化與社會意涵——以《三六九小報》及《風月》為探討文本》,臺南:國立成功大學臺灣文學研究所碩士論文,2006。
    梁晉榮,《近代台南市街道命名之研究》,臺南:國立成功大學建築研究所碩士論文,1999。
    廖怡錚,《傳統與摩登之間 日治時期臺灣的珈琲店與女給》,臺北:國立政治大學台灣史研究所碩士論文,2010。

    六、 網路資料
    〈吳新榮日記〉,臺灣日記知識庫,中央研究院臺灣史研究所。http://taco.ith.sinica.edu.tw/tdk/吳新榮日記 ,最後檢索日期:2018/12/4。
    〈臺南市百年歷史地圖〉,臺灣百年歷史地圖,中央研究院人社中心GIS專題中心。http://gissrv4.sinica.edu.tw/gis/tainan.aspx ,最後檢索日期:2018/11/20。

    五、工具書
    許雪姬等撰文,《臺灣歷史辭典》,臺北:行政院文化建設委員會,2004。

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