| 研究生: |
陳櫻文 Chen, Ying-Wen |
|---|---|
| 論文名稱: |
時尚與年輕職業婦女:論蘿倫.溫斯柏格在《穿著Prada的惡魔》中職場對服裝及身體的規範與年輕職業婦女的關係 Fashion and Young Career Women: Negotiating with Regulations on Dress and Body at Workplace in Lauren Weisberger's 《The Devil Wears Prada》 |
| 指導教授: |
游素玲
Yu, Su-Lin |
| 學位類別: |
碩士 Master |
| 系所名稱: |
文學院 - 外國語文學系 Department of Foreign Languages and Literature |
| 論文出版年: | 2012 |
| 畢業學年度: | 100 |
| 語文別: | 英文 |
| 論文頁數: | 78 |
| 中文關鍵詞: | 時尚工業 、服裝規範 、身體規範 、年輕職業婦女 、外表及身體的自主權 |
| 外文關鍵詞: | fashion industry, regulations on dress, disciplines on the body, young career women, autonomy of the appearance and body |
| 相關次數: | 點閱:196 下載:2 |
| 分享至: |
| 查詢本校圖書館目錄 查詢臺灣博碩士論文知識加值系統 勘誤回報 |
在蘿倫.溫斯柏格的首本小說《穿著Prada的惡魔》中,藉由一個剛畢業並進入時尚雜誌出版社的新鮮人Andrea Sach作為主角,並透過她的敘述來呈現時尚工作者的工作困境。雖然外表總是時髦又光鮮亮麗,但時尚工作者實際上在工作環境中承受著極大的壓力。而這壓力是源自於職場對她們的服裝以及身體的嚴格規範。我認為此書中時尚工作者的生活值得關注,因為她們因職場對服裝及身體的規範所遇到的困境,其他的年輕職業婦女也正面臨著。此論文首先介紹時尚工業的發展史,它如何引領年輕婦女踏入職場,以及時尚與媒體的密切關係。第一章主要探討Andrea面臨Runway時尚雜誌出版社對其員工的服裝及身體規範所產生的掙扎,並分析在這個過程中Andrea如何發現她的身體自主權。第二章探究Andrea的同事們為了在時尚工業中生存而對時尚規範全心投入。第三章則藉由探索Runway的運作以及呈現出其讀者的不同反應,我主張時尚工業其實是仰賴媒體將美的意識形態傳播給消費者,並對閱聽者造成不同程度的影響。最後,我點出時尚雜誌內隱含的訊息其實來自於商業考量。如何解讀這些訊息將決定讀者們對她們的身體及外貌的觀點,並影響她們為了用自己的方式呈現外表而如何與時尚規範協商。
Through the narrative of Andrea Sach, a graduate who starts her first job in fashion magazines publishing, Lauren Weisberger presents the difficult working lives of fashion workers in her first novel—The Devil Wears Prada. Although always appearing glamorously and stylishly, these fashion workers actually endure much pressure in their working environment. The pressure comes from the strict regulations on dress and disciplines on the body. I regard the lives of fashion workers in the novel as an issue worth to discuss because their difficulties caused by regulations on dress and body are shared by other young career women, too. The thesis begins with the development of fashion industry, how it helped young women step into public working environment, and its close relationship with mass media. The first chapter discusses Andrea’s struggle with the regulations on dress and body in Runway magazine publishing, and analyzes the process of discovering her bodily autonomy. The second chapter explores Andrea’s colleagues’ devotion to fashion rules in order to survive in fashion industry. In the third chapter, by investigating the operation of Runway and presenting its readers’ various responses, I reveal how fashion industry relies on media to disseminate beauty ideology to consumers, and to what extent readers are influenced by such ideology. Finally, I point out the messages implied in fashion magazines are actually based on commercial consideration. How to interpret the messages in fashion magazines determines readers’ perspectives on their own appearances and bodies, and affects how they negotiate with fashion rules in order to present themselves in their own ways.
Works Cited
Betts, Kate. “Anna Dearest.” Rev. of The Devil Wears Prada, by Lauren Weisberger. 7 December, 2010. <http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/13/books/anna-dearest.html>
Black, Paula. “Discipline and Pleasure: the Uneasy Relationship between Feminism and the Beauty Industry.” Feminism in Popular Culture. Eds. Joanne Hollows and Rachel Moseley. New York: Berg, 2006. 143-159.
Bartky, Sandra Lee. Introduction. Femininity and Domination: Studies in the Phenomenology of Oppression. New York: Routledge, 1991. 1-10.
---. “Foucault, Femininity, and the Modernization of Patriarchal Power.” Femininity and Domination: Studies in the Phenomenology of Oppression. New York: Routledge, 1991. 63-82.
Berlanstein, Lenard R. “Selling Modern Femininity: Femina, a Forgotten Feminist Publishing Success in Belle Epoque France.” French Historical Studies 30.4 (2007): 623-649.
Bordo, Susan. Introduction. Unbearable Weight: Feminism, Western Culture, and the Body. Berkeley: The U of California P, 1993. 1-42.
---. “Reading the Slender Body.” Unbearable Weight: Feminism, Western Culture, and the Body. Berkeley: The U of California P, 1993. 185-212.
---.“The Body and the Reproduction of Femininity.” Unbearable Weight: Feminism, Western Culture, and the Body. Berkeley: The U of California P, 1993. 165-184.
Breward, Christopher. “Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the late Nineteenth-Century Fashion Journal.” Journal of Design History 7.2 (1994): 71-89.
Burns-Ardolino, Wendy A.. “Reading Woman: Displacing the Foundations of Femininity.” Hypatia 18.3 (2003): 42-59.
Carter, Cynthia and Lisa McLaughlin. “Feminism, Media and the Politics of Identity.” Feminist Media Studies 6.3 (2006): 241-243.
Coleman, Rebecca. “Becoming of Bodies: Girls, Media Effects, and Body Image.” Feminist Media Studies 8.2 (2008): 163-179.
Cooke, Rachel. “Fashion Faux Pas.” Rev. of The Devil Wears Prada, by Lauren Weisberger. November, 2011. <http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2003/sep/28/fiction.features>
Davis, Kathy. “Embody-ing Theory: Beyond Modernist and Postmodernist Readings of the Body.” Embodied Practices: Feminist Perspectives on the Body. London: Sage, 1997. 1-23.
---.“Remaking the She-Devil: A Critical Look at Feminist Approaches to Beauty.” Hypatia 6.2 (1991): 21-43.
Donahue, Deirdre. “Devil Wears Prada Feels Worn.” Rev. of The Devil Wears Prada, by Lauren Weisberger. December, 2011. <http://www.usatoday.com/life/books/reviews/2003-04-16-prada_x.htm>
Entwistle, Joanne and Elizabeth Wilson, eds. Body Dressing. Oxford: Berg, 2001.
Ferriss, Suzanne, and Mallory Young. Introduction. Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. New York: Routledge, 2006. 1-13.
Finkelstein, Joanne. “Chic Outrage and Body Politics.” Embodied Practices: Feminist Perspectives on the Body. Eds. Kathy Davis. London: Sage, 1997. 150-167.
Frings, Gini Stephens. Fashion: from Concept to Consumer--9th Edition. New Jersey: Pearson, 2008.
Gibson, Pamela Church. “Analysing Fashion.” The Fashion Handbook. Eds. Tim Jackson and David Shaw. New York: Routledge, 2006. 20-28.
Gough-Yates, Anna. Understanding Women’s Magazines: Publishing, Markets and Readerships. London: Routledge, 2003.
Guerrero, Lisa A.. “’Sistah’s Are Doin’ It for Themselves’: Chick Lit in Black and White.” Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. Eds. Suzanne Ferriss and Mallory Young. New York: Routledge, 2006. 87-101.
Hollander, Anne. Seeing through Clothes. Berkeley: U of California P, 1993.
---. Sex and Suits. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1995.
Hollows, Joanne. Feminism, Femininity, and Popular Culture. Manchester: Manchester UP, 2000.
Kaiser, Susan. “Minding Appearances: Style, Truth and Subjectivity.” Body Dressing. Eds. Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson. Oxford: Berg, 2001. 79-102.
Koo, Kathryn S. and Erica Reischer. “The Body Beautiful: Symbolism and Agency in the Social World.” Annual Review of Anthropology 33 (2004): 297-317.
Lakoff, Robin Tolmach and Raquel L. Scherr. Face Value: The Politics of Beauty. London: Routledge, 1984.
Lintott, Sheila. “Sublime Hunger: A Consideration of Eating Disorders beyond Beauty.” Hypatia 18.4 (2003): 65-86.
Lynch, Annette and Mitchell D. Strauss. Changing Fashion. New York: Berg, 2007.
Maslin, Janet. “Elegant Magazine, Avalanche of Dirt.” Rev. of The Devil Wears Prada, by Lauren Weisberger. December, 2010. <http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/14/books/books-of-the-times-elegant-magazine-avalanche-of-dirt.html?pagewanted=all&src=pm>
Mazza, Cris.”Who’s Laughing Now? A Short History of Chick Lit and the Perversion of a Genre.” Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. Eds. Suzanne Ferriss and Mallory Young. New York: Routledge, 2006. 17-28.
McDonald, Myra. Representing Women: Myths of Femininity in the Popular Media. London: Arnold, 1995.
McLaren, Margaret A.. Feminism, Foucault, and Embodied Subjectivity. New York: U of New York P, 2002.
McNay, Lois. “The Foucauldian Body and the Exclusion of Experience.” Hypatia 6.3 (1991): 125-139.
McRobbie, Angela. “Bridging the Gap: Feminism, Fashion, and Consumption.” Feminist Review 55 (1997): 73-89.
McVey, Sheila. “Nineteenth Century America: Publishing in a Developing Country.” Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science 421 (1975): 67-80.
Mickett, Carol. “Comments on Sandra Lee Bartky’s ‘Femininity and Domination.’” Hypatia 8.1 (1993): 173-177.
Miller, Christopher M. “Toward Formalizing Fashion Theory.” Journal of Marketing Research 30.2 (1993): 142-157.
Polan, Brenda. “Fashion Journalism.” The Fashion Handbook. Eds. Tim Jackson and David Shaw. New York: Routledge, 2006. 154-171.
Radner, Hilary. “Embodying the Single Girl in the 1960s.” Body Dressing. Eds. Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson. Oxford: Berg, 2001. 183-197.
Silverman, Kaja. “Fragments of A Fashionable Discourse.” Studies in Entertainment: Critical Approaches in Mass Culture. Eds. Tania Modleski. Bloomington: Indiana UP, 1986. 139-151.
Soper, Kate. “Dress Needs: Reflections on the Clothed Body, Selfhood and Consumption.” Body Dressing. Eds. Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson. Oxford: Berg, 2001. 13-32.
Storey, John. An In troduction to Cultural Theory and Popular Culture. Athens: U of Georgia P, 1998.
Sweetman, Paul. “Shop-Window Dummies? Fashion, the Body, and Emergent Socialities.” Body Dressing. Eds. Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson. Oxford: Berg, 2001. 59-77.
Umminger, Alison. “Supersizing Bridget Jones: What’s Really Eating the Women in Chick Lit.” Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. Eds. Suzanne Ferriss and Mallory Young. New York: Routledge, 2006. 239-252.
Weisberger, Lauren. The Devil Wears Prada. New York: Anchor Books, 2006.
Willett, Julie. The American Beauty Industry Encyclopedia. California: Greenwood, 2010.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. New Jersey: Rutgers UP, 2003.
Winship, Janice. Inside Women’s Magazines. London: Pandora, 1987.
Wolf, Naomi. The Beauty Myth: How Images of Beauty Are Used Against Women. New York: HarperCollins, 2002.
Woolleet, Anne. Harriette Marshall. “Reading the Body: Young Women’s Accounts of Their Bodies in Relation to Autonomy and Independence.” Embodied Practices: Feminist Perspectives on the Body. Eds. Kathy Davis. London: Sage, 1997.27-40.
Young, Iris Marion. Justice and the Politics of Difference. Princeton: Princeton UP, 1990