| 研究生: |
林玉芬 Lin, Yu-Fen |
|---|---|
| 論文名稱: |
規則波淺化之研究 Studies on the Shoaling of Regular Waves |
| 指導教授: |
林西川
Lin, Shi-Chuan |
| 學位類別: |
碩士 Master |
| 系所名稱: |
工學院 - 水利及海洋工程學系 Department of Hydraulic & Ocean Engineering |
| 論文出版年: | 2009 |
| 畢業學年度: | 98 |
| 語文別: | 中文 |
| 論文頁數: | 67 |
| 中文關鍵詞: | 規則波 、淺化 、正規化 、富立葉近似法 |
| 外文關鍵詞: | Regular waves, Shoaling, normalization, Fourier approximation method |
| 相關次數: | 點閱:139 下載:1 |
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本文利用富立葉近似法(Fourier approximation method)解析波浪淺化過程中波高及波長的變化,並提出正規化水深之概念,將波浪存在之水深範圍,深水至碎波水深正規化為2~1後,進行經驗公式的推求。
本文之經驗公式和Le Roux(2007a)經驗公式推算結果與富立葉近似法計算結果做比較,顯示本文之經驗式與富立葉近似法之結果均相當吻合,可說明本文之經驗式對於波浪淺化時,波高及波長之推算具有高度之適用性。Le Roux之波高經驗式隨著相對水深增大,波高有低估的現象,且波浪尖銳越大,差異越大。Le Roux之波長經驗式僅與相對水深有關,與深海波浪尖銳度無關,不符合非線性波之波長和水深及波高有關的特性;且約在d/Lo>0.35處, L/Lo有大於1之不合理現象。
The Fourier approximation method is applied to solving wave height and wavelength problems of waves shoaling、for providing a normalization concept. We normalize the waves scope of depth and deep water to breaking depth into the range of 2~1. Finally、we check the experience formula computations.
We compare with the other two results which are Le Roux's result and the result of Fourier approximation method. Results show that the present formula in this study is adapted to calculation of wave height and wavelength in waves shoaling situation. Le Roux's present formula would not only underestimate wave height with the relative depth increases、but also the difference values become more lager when wave steepness increases. The result is related to depth、but not to wave steepness. It doesn’t conform to the (characteristic) nonlinear wave、and it’s unreasonable about when d/Lo>0.35 and L/Lo>1. We make the conclusion that it's not suitable for waves shoaling calculation.
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