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研究生: 張瑤
Zhang, Yao
論文名稱: 重探物質文化與非物質文化----探索靛藍的可持續發展與創新
Revisit Material Culture and Non-material Culture to Explore Sustainable Development and Innovation of Indigo
指導教授: 劉世南
Liou, Shyhnan
楊佳翰
Yang , Chia-Han
學位類別: 博士
Doctor
系所名稱: 規劃與設計學院 - 創意產業設計研究所
Institute of Creative Industries Design
論文出版年: 2026
畢業學年度: 114
語文別: 英文
論文頁數: 413
中文關鍵詞: 藍染文化 、物質文化和非物質文化 、雙核驅動三層六結構協同模型 、結構韌性 、紮根理論
外文關鍵詞: Indigo Culture, Material Culture and Non-material Culture, Dual-Core-Driven Three-Layer Six-Structure Synergy Model, Structural Resilience, Grounded Theory
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  • 在全球文化遺產保存與創意經濟日益交融的脈絡下,傳統藍染已不僅是一項染織技藝,更是一種同時承載物質實踐、文化意義與社會關係的複合文化系統。然而,藍染文化如何在當代社會中維持其文化延續性,並進一步實現產業創新與永續發展,其內在運作機制仍有待系統性闡明。既有研究多聚焦於技藝傳承、文化符號、遺產保存或產業轉型等個別面向,對於物質文化與非物質文化如何相互作用、共同形塑藍染文化發展路徑的理解,仍多停留於描述性層次,尚缺乏能夠整合兩者動態關係的理論解釋框架。
    本研究以藍染文化為研究對象,結合物質文化與非物質文化遺產的理論視角,探討藍染文化永續發展與創新的結構條件、運作機制及演化路徑。依據不同的發展邏輯與組織型態,本研究選取四組具代表性的案例,包括中國貴州丹寨與安順、廣東連南瑤族地區、臺灣卓也藍染,以及國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心自然色工坊,分別呈現日常生活嵌入、文化維繫、產業整合與機構推廣等差異化發展情境。
    研究採取多案例質性研究設計,透過多地點田野調查、參與式與非參與式觀察,以及43次半結構式訪談蒐集一手資料,並運用NVivo軟體輔助紮根理論分析。資料分析依序進行開放編碼、主軸編碼與選擇性編碼,共形成1,977項開放編碼及251個初始類別,據此辨識核心類別、結構關係與跨案例發展模式。
    研究結果顯示,藍染文化的永續發展並非由單一資源、技藝或制度因素所決定,而是物質文化結構與非物質文化結構持續互動所形成的動態協同系統。物質文化構成藍染發展的「實踐可供性結構」,透過技藝、原料、工具、生產空間與基礎設施,提供文化實踐得以延續的具體條件;非物質文化則形成「象徵賦權結構」,藉由文化認同、信仰體系、地方記憶、工藝倫理與價值規範,賦予實踐行動以意義、正當性與社會動力。兩者並非彼此分離,而是透過持續的互譯與互構而共同演化:物質實踐使文化意義得以具體化、可感知化與可傳遞化,文化意義則持續重塑物質生產的價值導向、社會功能及產業定位。
    研究進一步發現,不同協同模式之間的轉換並不會自然發生,而有賴於若干關鍵催化條件,包括物質基礎的重建、文化意義的重新詮釋,以及制度與組織機制的有效介入。當上述條件不足,或當過度市場化、制度僵化及生態耗竭破壞物質文化與非物質文化之間的互動時,藍染文化系統可能出現「去協同化」現象,導致結構連結弱化、系統韌性下降,並限制文化傳承、產業轉型與創新發展。
    基於上述發現,本研究提出「雙核驅動三層六結構協同模型」。該模型以物質文化核心與非物質文化核心的持續互動為主要驅動機制,將藍染文化的發展系統區分為物質基礎層、文化意義層與產業運作層三個相互關聯的層次,並進一步辨識技藝結構、物質結構、文化結構、產業結構、組織結構與生態結構六項運作要素。此模型說明六項結構要素如何在雙核心驅動下相互耦合、補償與轉化,進而形塑藍染文化的發展韌性及創新能力。
    跨案例比較進一步辨識出四種典型協同模式。貴州案例呈現「內源型協同」,藍染技藝仍深度嵌入地方生活、生計系統與族群文化之中;連南案例呈現「失衡型協同」,文化意義及族群認同持續存在,但物質基礎與實踐條件逐漸衰退;卓也藍染呈現「轉譯型協同」,透過品牌建構、設計轉譯與體驗消費,將文化意義轉化為市場及經濟價值;國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心自然色工坊則呈現「系統型協同」,藉由制度化教育、研究資源及組織支持,促進技藝知識的保存、傳播與結構性再生產。
    制度邏輯分析亦顯示,不同制度安排是形塑藍染文化發展路徑的重要中介機制。中國大陸案例主要受到國家嵌入型制度邏輯影響;卓也藍染的發展較受市場美學型邏輯驅動;國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心自然色工坊則呈現結合政府、文化與市場力量的混合型制度邏輯。不同制度邏輯影響物質與非物質文化資源的動員、配置與轉化方式,因而使具有相近文化基礎的地區形成不同的永續發展路徑。
    本研究的理論貢獻主要包括四個方面。第一,將可供性理論延伸至傳統工藝與文化產業研究,指出藍染的物質可供性並非固定不變的客觀屬性,而是在制度重構、市場中介與社會實踐中持續被激活、轉譯與再生產。第二,超越物質文化與非物質文化之間的靜態二元區分,將兩者重新概念化為動態互構的結構力量,從而揭示物質載體與文化意義之間持續耦合的關係。第三,將傳統工藝研究由保存或產業化的描述性討論,推進至多重結構協同的機制性解釋,並以結構韌性為核心,辨識協同轉換的催化條件、臨界狀態、去協同化風險及補償性激活機制。第四,引入制度邏輯觀點,說明國家嵌入型、市場美學型與混合型制度邏輯如何中介雙核心及六項結構要素之間的互動,並解釋不同地區發展路徑的差異。
    在方法論上,本研究建立了由田野資料、概念編碼、類別建構、理論抽象至跨案例驗證的完整分析鏈結。在實務上,研究結果可為政策制定者、文化遺產保存機構、地方組織、創意產業實踐者及教育研究機構提供策略參考,協助其在文化傳承、產業創新、生態永續與社會再生之間形成更具韌性與適應性的發展模式。

    Against the growing convergence of cultural heritage preservation and the creative economy, traditional indigo dyeing should be understood not merely as a textile craft, but as a complex cultural system encompassing material practices, cultural meanings, and social relations. Nevertheless, the mechanisms through which indigo culture maintains cultural continuity while simultaneously achieving industrial innovation and sustainable development remain insufficiently theorized. Existing studies have tended to examine indigo dyeing from isolated perspectives, including craft transmission, cultural symbolism, heritage preservation, and industrial transformation. Consequently, current understanding remains largely descriptive and lacks an integrative explanatory framework capable of accounting for the dynamic interplay between material culture and intangible cultural heritage.
    This study investigates the structural conditions, operational mechanisms, and evolutionary pathways underlying the sustainable development and innovation of indigo culture. Drawing on the theoretical perspectives of material culture and intangible cultural heritage, four representative cases were selected according to their distinctive developmental logics and organizational configurations: Danzhai and Anshun in Guizhou Province, the Liannan Yao region in Guangdong Province, Zhuo Ye Indigo in Taiwan, and the Natural Dye Workshop of the National Taiwan Craft Research and Development Institute (NTCRI). These cases respectively represent development contexts characterized by embeddedness in everyday life, cultural maintenance, industrial integration, and institutional promotion.
    A qualitative multiple-case research design was adopted. Primary data were collected through multi-sited fieldwork, participant and non-participant observation, and 43 semi-structured interviews. Grounded theory analysis was conducted with the assistance of NVivo. The analytical process involved open, axial, and selective coding, generating 1,977 open codes and 251 initial categories. These procedures enabled the identification of core categories, structural relationships, and cross-case patterns of development.
    The findings demonstrate that the sustainable development of indigo culture is not determined by any single resource, craft, or institutional factor. Rather, it emerges from a dynamic system of synergy between material and non-material cultural structures. Material culture constitutes a structure of practical affordance, providing the tangible conditions necessary for cultural practice through techniques, raw materials, tools, production spaces, and infrastructure. Non-material culture, in contrast, operates as a structure of symbolic empowerment, generating meaning, legitimacy, and social motivation through cultural identity, belief systems, collective memory, craft ethics, and value norms.
    These two dimensions are neither independent nor sequential. Instead, they continuously co-evolve through processes of mutual translation and co-constitution. Material practices render cultural meanings tangible, perceptible, and transmissible, while cultural meanings continually reshape the value orientations, social functions, and industrial positioning of material production.
    The study further reveals that transitions between different synergistic configurations do not occur automatically. Such transitions depend on several catalytic conditions, including the reconstruction of material foundations, the reinterpretation of cultural meanings, and the effective activation of institutional and organizational mechanisms. When these conditions are absent—or when excessive commercialization, institutional rigidity, and ecological depletion disrupt the relationship between material and non-material cultural structures—the system may undergo a process of de-synergization. This process weakens structural interconnections, reduces systemic resilience, and constrains cultural transmission, industrial transformation, and innovation.
    Based on these findings, this study proposes the Dual-Core-Driven Three-Layer Six-Structure Synergy Model. The model identifies the continuous interaction between the material culture core and the non-material culture core as the principal driving mechanism of indigo cultural development. It conceptualizes the system across three interrelated layers: the material foundation layer, the cultural meaning layer, and the industrial operation layer. Within these layers, six operational structures are identified: technical, material, cultural, industrial, organizational, and ecological structures. The model explains how these six structures interact, compensate for one another, and undergo transformation under the influence of the dual cultural cores, thereby shaping the resilience and innovative capacity of indigo culture.
    Cross-case comparison identifies four distinctive modes of synergy. The Guizhou case demonstrates an endogenous synergy mode, in which indigo dyeing remains deeply embedded in local livelihoods, everyday practices, and ethnic culture. The Liannan case represents an imbalanced synergy mode, characterized by the persistence of cultural meaning and ethnic identity alongside the gradual erosion of material foundations and practical conditions. Zhuo Ye Indigo illustrates a translational synergy mode, through which cultural meaning is converted into market and economic value by means of branding, design translation, and experiential consumption. The NTCRI Natural Dye Workshop exemplifies a systemic synergy mode, in which institutionalized education, research resources, and organizational support facilitate the preservation, dissemination, and structural reproduction of craft knowledge.
    The institutional analysis further demonstrates that institutional logics operate as critical mediating mechanisms in shaping development pathways. The mainland Chinese cases are predominantly influenced by a state-embedded institutional logic; Zhuo Ye Indigo is primarily driven by a market-aesthetic logic; and the NTCRI Natural Dye Workshop reflects a hybrid institutional logic integrating governmental, cultural, and market forces. These institutional logics influence how material and non-material cultural resources are mobilized, allocated, and transformed, thereby explaining why regions with comparable cultural foundations may develop divergent pathways toward sustainability.
    This study makes four primary theoretical contributions. First, it extends affordance theory to the study of traditional crafts and cultural industries by demonstrating that the material affordances of indigo dyeing are not fixed or inherent properties. Rather, they are continuously activated, translated, and reproduced through institutional reconstruction, market mediation, and social practice. Second, it moves beyond a static dualism between material and non-material culture by conceptualizing them as dynamically co-constitutive structural forces, thereby revealing the continuous coupling of material carriers and cultural meanings. Third, it advances traditional craft research from descriptive accounts of preservation and industrialization toward a mechanism-based explanation of multi-structural synergy. In doing so, it develops a dynamic framework centered on structural resilience and identifies the catalytic conditions, critical thresholds, risks of de-synergization, and compensatory activation mechanisms involved in systemic transformation. Fourth, it incorporates an institutional logic perspective to explain how state-embedded, market-aesthetic, and hybrid institutional logics mediate interactions between the dual cultural cores and the six structural elements, thereby producing divergent regional development trajectories.
    Methodologically, this study establishes an integrated analytical process linking fieldwork evidence, conceptual coding, category construction, theoretical abstraction, and cross-case validation. Practically, the findings provide strategic implications for policymakers, heritage preservation institutions, local organizations, creative industry practitioners, and educational and research institutions seeking to develop more resilient and adaptive approaches to cultural transmission, industrial innovation, ecological sustainability, and social regeneration.

    ABSTRACT II 摘要 VI ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS IX TABLE OF CONTENTS XI LIST OF TABLES XVII LIST OF FIGURES XIX CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Research Overview 1 1.2 Research Background 2 1.2.1 An Integrative Perspective of Material and Non-material Culture 2 1.2.2 Development Status and Challenges of the Textile Dye Industry 5 1.2.3 Trends in Ecological Sustainability 7 1.3 Research Motivation 9 1.3.1 Personal Motivation: Traditional Cultural Experience and Design Practice 9 1.3.2 Industry Realities and Structurally Driven Challenges 10 1.3.3 Academic Perspective: Cultural Anthropology and the Integration of Material and Non-material Dimensions 12 1.4 Research Objectives and Research Questions 13 1.4.1 Research Objectives 13 1.4.2 Research Questions 14 1.5 Research Methodology 15 1.5.1 Literature Review and Theoretical Framework Construction 16 1.5.2 Multiple Case Study Design 17 1.5.3 Empirical Data Collection Methods 18 1.5.4 Data Analysis 20 1.5.5 Alignment Between Research Questions and Methods 21 1.6 Research Policy Context and Regional Scope 23 1.6.1 Research Policy Context 23 1.6.2 Delimitation of Research Regions and Scope 24 1.7 Chapter Overview 26 CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW 28 2.1 Overview of the Literature 28 2.2 Material Culture 29 2.2.1 Theoretical Conceptualization of Material Culture 29 2.2.2 Material Culture Analysis of Indigo: From Material Substance to Structural Meaning 31 2.2.3 Material Foundations of Indigo: Plant Resources and Distribution 40 2.2.4 Indigo Extraction Processes and Dyeing Mechanisms 44 2.2.5 Decorative Techniques and Design Transformation of Indigo 65 2.2.6 Material Properties and Functional Applications of Indigo 72 2.2.7 Affordances and Constraint Mechanisms of Indigo 78 2.3 Indigo within the Context of Non-material Cultural Heritage 83 2.3.1 Theoretical Definition of Non-material Cultural Heritage 83 2.3.2 Policies for Safeguarding Indigo-Related Non-material Cultural Heritage 85 2.3.3 The Relationship Between Indigo and Human Behavior 92 2.3.4 The Social Value System of Indigo 97 2.4 The Interaction Between Material Culture and Non-material Cultural Heritage 99 2.4.1 Beyond Dualism: Rethinking Material and Non-material Culture 99 2.4.2 The Formation of Materiality: From Objects to Practice 100 2.4.3 From Representation to Co-constitution: Interactive Dynamics 101 2.4.4 Interactive Mechanisms in the Case of Indigo 102 2.4.5 Dynamic Sustainability: Structural Resilience, Institutional Mediation, and Critical Events 103 2.5 Literature Review and Research Positioning 106 2.5.1 Literature Search and Selection Strategy 106 2.5.2 Achievements and Critical Assessment from the Perspective of Material Culture 106 2.5.3 Achievements and Critical Assessment from the Perspective of Non-material Cultural Heritage 110 2.5.4 Limitations and Research Gaps in Existing Studies 116 2.5.5 Theoretical Framework and Research Innovation of This Study 118 CHAPTER 3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 122 3.1 Overview of Research Design and Methodological Framework 122 3.1.1 Research Nature and Positioning 123 3.1.2 Rationale for Method Selection and Chapter Integration 124 3.2 Conceptual Framework of the Study 126 3.2.1 Alignment Between Research Objectives and Methods 126 3.2.2 Analytical Framework 128 3.3 Multi-Case Research Design 131 3.3.1 Principles and Rationale for Case Selection 131 3.3.2 Case One: Danzhai and Anshun, Guizhou 132 3.3.3 Case Two: Liannan Yao Autonomous County, Guangdong 132 3.3.4 Case Three: Zhuo Ye Indigo, Taiwan 133 3.3.5 Case Four: NTCRI Natural Dye Workshop, Taiwan 133 3.3.6 Design of Cross-Case Comparative Dimensions 134 3.4 Data Collection Methods 135 3.4.1 Literature Review 135 3.4.2 Fieldwork and Observation 136 3.4.3 In-depth Interviews 137 3.4.4 Data Sources and Sample Composition 139 3.5 Data Analysis Methods 140 3.5.1 Grounded Theory Coding Process 140 3.5.2 Cross-Case Comparative Analysis 141 3.6 Research Ethics and Trustworthiness 143 3.6.1 Ensuring Trustworthiness 144 3.6.2 Ethical Considerations 146 3.7 Chapter Summary 147 CHAPTER 4 RESULTS AND ANALYSIS 150 4.1 Data Sources and Data Collection 150 4.1.1 Data Sources 150 4.1.2 Data Collection Process 150 4.2.1 Indigo Dyeing Case in Danzhai and Anshun, Guizhou (D1) 151 4.2.2 Indigo Dyeing Case in Liannan Yao Autonomous County, Guangdong (D2) 171 4.2.3 Indigo Dyeing Case of Zhuo Ye Indigo, Taiwan (D3) 184 4.2.4 Indigo Dyeing Case of the Natural Dye Workshop, Taiwan (D4) 194 4.2.5 Summary 203 4.3 NVivo-Based Data Analysis 205 4.3.1 Construction of the NVivo Database and Coding Preparation 206 4.3.2 Open Coding 207 4.3.3 Axial Coding: Constructing Structural Relationships in Indigo Culture 213 4.3.4 Selective Coding: Core Category Construction for the Sustainable Development of Indigo Culture 229 4.4 Cross-Case Integration of Structural Dynamics 241 4.4.1 Institutional Logics Underlying Divergent Development Pathways 245 4.4.2 Imbalanced Synergy and Craft Ecosystem Resilience: Evidence from Cross-Case Analysis 249 4.4.3 Critical Events and Transformative Dynamics: An Event-Based Reading of Cross-Case Development 253 4.5 Implications of Structural Integration for Theoretical Model Construction 261 CHAPTER 5 STRUCTURAL TURN IN THEORETICAL CONSTRUCTION 266 5.1 Emergence of the Core Category and Pathways of Theoretical Integration 266 5.1.1 From Cross-Case Structural Relations to the Emergence of the Core Category 268 5.1.2 Conceptual Definition and Theoretical Implications of the Core Category 270 5.1.3 Variations of the Core Category Across the Four Cases 271 5.2 Structural Mechanisms Influencing the Sustainable Development of the Indigo Dyeing Industry 273 5.2.1 Material Production Structure as a Foundational Support Mechanism 273 5.2.2 Cultural Meaning Structure as a Meaning Driven Mechanism 274 5.2.3 Industrial Organizational Structure as a Mechanism of Institutional Mediation 276 5.2.4 Institutional and Ecological Structures as a Path Shaping Mechanism 277 5.3 Synergistic Mechanism between Material Culture and Non-material Culture 280 5.3.1 Interactive Translation between Material Carriers and Cultural Symbols 283 5.3.2 Cyclical Reinforcement between Craft Practice and Social Recognition 284 5.3.3 Pathways of Value Transformation of Cultural Meaning within the Industrial System 285 5.3.4 Variations in Synergistic Patterns across Developmental Stages 286 5.4 Structural Dynamics Model for Innovation and Sustainable Development of the Indigo Dyeing Industry 289 5.4.1 Theoretical Abstraction of Synergistic Structural Dynamics 292 5.4.2 Three-Layer Structural Synergy Model Driven by Dual Cores of Material and Non-material Culture 294 5.4.3 Interactive Mechanism of Six Structural Elements: A Structurally Driven System under Dual Core Dynamics 300 5.4.4 Model Mapping and Theoretical Validation across Regional Development Paths 308 5.5 Chapter Summary 316 CHAPTER 6 RESEARCH CONCLUSIONS 321 6.1 Synthesis of Research Conclusions 321 6.1.1 The sustainable development of the indigo dyeing industry is fundamentally the result of multi-structural dynamic synergy 321 6.1.2 The synergy between material culture and non-material culture constitutes the core operational logic of the indigo dyeing industry 323 6.1.3 Innovation and sustainability in the indigo dyeing industry are explained by a dual-core driven structural logic 324 6.2 Theoretical Contributions 326 6.3 Practical Implications 328 6.4 Research Limitations and Future Directions 331 6.4.1 Limitations 331 6.4.2 Future Directions 332 6.5 Chapter Summary 333 REFERENCES 335 APPENDIX A INTERVIEW DATA FOR THE GUIZHOU CASE 353 APPENDIX B INTERVIEW DATA FOR THE LIANNAN CASE 355 APPENDIX C INTERVIEW DATA FOR THE ZHUO YE INDIGO CASE 357 APPENDIX D 359 INTERVIEW DATA FOR THE NATURAL DYE WORKSHOP CASE 359 APPENDIX E 360 INTERVIEW PROTOCOLS FOR THE GUIZHOU CASE (CASE 1) 360 APPENDIX F 368 INTERVIEW PROTOCOLS FOR THE LIANNAN CASE (CASE 2) 368 APPENDIX G 380 INTERVIEW PROTOCOLS FOR THE ZHUO YE INDIGO CASE (CASE 3) 380 APPENDIX H 387 INTERVIEW PROTOCOL FOR THE NATURAL DYE WORKSHOP CASE (CASE 4) 387

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