| 研究生: |
潘念萱 Pan, Nian-Syuan |
|---|---|
| 論文名稱: |
紡織垃圾的再時尚 Sustainable Architextiles |
| 指導教授: |
劉舜仁
Liou, Shuenn-Ren |
| 共同指導教授: |
黃謙智
Huang, Arthur |
| 學位類別: |
碩士 Master |
| 系所名稱: |
規劃與設計學院 - 建築學系 Department of Architecture |
| 論文出版年: | 2019 |
| 畢業學年度: | 107 |
| 語文別: | 中文 |
| 論文頁數: | 57 |
| 中文關鍵詞: | 快時尚 、不織布 、皺褶繡 、永續材料 |
| 外文關鍵詞: | fast fashion, non-woven, smocking, sustainable materials |
| 相關次數: | 點閱:172 下載:20 |
| 分享至: |
| 查詢本校圖書館目錄 查詢臺灣博碩士論文知識加值系統 勘誤回報 |
現今產業多以線性經濟架構為主發展,這種鏈狀架構下容易忽略有些仍能再次利用的資源,將其直接丟棄造成許多外部成本,而台灣的能源及原物料極度仰賴進口,在這種條件下應該要從循環經濟架構下思考,減少對原物料的依賴,將資源做更有效率的應用。
而在2000 年快時尚興起後,服裝產業的蓬勃發展,不管是因製造的過程造成的汙染或是因過度生產、過度消費所造成的大量丟棄都對環境造成很大的負擔,甚至使服裝產業為僅次於石化產業的最大汙染產業,近期產業內開始轉換思考,分別從不同層級的循環利用著手,漸漸打破原本鏈狀的
生產結構,往環狀生產圈模式前進,讓可以再次被使用的資源不被直接丟棄。
本文希望能從探討當時尚轉變為垃圾後如何再次使用,甚至成為一種新的時尚,由布的特性為起點,分別從針織布、機織布、不織布的製程與特性比較開始,到研究傳統皺褶繡與不織布加入低熔點纖維針扎後經過溫度提升產生的變化,布開始可被塑型並藉此產生的一定的結構性,且思考在
這之中如何加快生產速度與減少製程上過多的浪費。
最後則是利用因溫度不同,布不再是單一特性,由一開始軟且無結構性,到產生可變動的彈性或是具有硬度但不可變等特性,應用到不同尺度的物件與空間設計,探討建築與布之間的關係,並且開始思考組裝與拆卸替換的關係。
Today, industries are based on linear economic. Under this linear structure, it is easy to ignore some resources that can be reused. Directly discarding leads to extra costs. Energy and raw materials in Taiwan totally depend on imports. Under the conditions, we should think from the circular economy, reduce the dependence on the original materials, and make the resources more efficient. In the near future, the industry will change. Different levels of recycling will gradually break the original chain production. The structure moves forward to the ring production, so that resources that can be reused.
This thesis explores how to reuse materials before they become garbage, or make them into new fashion products. Start from the characteristics of cloth, the process and the characteristics of knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics are compared.
Then, do the research of the traditional smocking, and the changing characteristics of non-woven fabrics added low-melting-point fiber with the needle punch when temperature
increase. The cloth is shaped and the structure is formed. Also, study how to speed up the production and reduce the excessive waste in the process.
Finally, with different temperature, the cloth is no longer a single characteristic. It changes from soft and non-structural to variable elasticity and hardness. Moreover, apply them to different scales of objects and space, explore the relationship between architecture and cloth, and rethink the relationship between assembly and disassembly.
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圖 1 生物循環與工業循環
https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy/infographic
圖 2 快時尚興起
http://m.greenpeace.org/taiwan/Global/taiwan/planet3/documents/for_download/OVC/2
017/Time%20out%20for%20Fast%20Fashion_factsheet%200419_Traditional%20 Chinese.pdf
圖 9 寶特瓶回收再製聚酯纖維
https://www.slideshare.net/suniltalekar1/25-textile-testing-methods
圖 10 重新剪裁再製
https://materialdistrict.com/material/reused-materials/#moved
https://www.fashionexpress.org.tw/focus/paper/4470351184/
https://www.pentatonic.com/en_eu/shop/new-clothes/new-clothes-hangers- fashion-
waste.html
圖 11 重製面料
https://s3-ap-northeast-1.amazonaws.com/lazybusiness/data/old_article_ detail/57C1C88F-
46B9-4AC1-A504-C00192D7DDBE.jpg
https://materia.nl/material/metisse-recycled-textile-insulation/
https://www.pentatonic.com/en_eu/shop/chairs.html
圖 12 分解成酯狀物後再製紗線
https://newatlas.com/melting-down-old-clothes/48749/
圖 13 機織布
https://wenku.baidu.com/view/353f93cd763231126fdb11b3.html?from=search
圖 14 針織布
https://wenku.baidu.com/view/353f93cd763231126fdb11b3.html?from=search
圖 15 不織布
https://www.123rf.com/photo_41458837_gray-nonwoven-fabric-texture-background.html
圖 16 不同織物製程與時間關係
https://www.barnhardtcotton.net/blog/know-fibers-wovens-vs-nonwovens-knit-fabrics/
圖 17 熱粘合法
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/nonwoven-fabric
圖 18 水針法
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/nonwoven-fabric
圖 19 針軋法
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/nonwoven-fabric
圖 22 低熔點聚酯纖維經溫度提升產生變化
http://clewm.com/site/IY13848/20857/
圖 23 不織布於工業產品上的應用
https://www.topsimages.com/images/automotive-nonwovens-88.html
http://mocoloco.com/vote/pod-chair-by-benjamin-hubert/
https://kitchendecor.club/files/car-insulation-material.html
圖 24 摺紙
http://c-auto.pro/fccd/51a4c1f795ed/likes-comments-hyperqbert-miketanis_-on-instagr-27ce9d
圖 25 皺褶繡
https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=singerkorea&logNo=220880793498&proxyRefe
rer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
圖 26 皺褶繡用於服裝上
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ambrosius_Holbein_002detail.jpg
https://www.statethelabel.com/blogs/secretstateblog/smock-history
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/35/c4/20/35c420d9d59bba584c81d1d62bf9a533.jpg
https://www.etsy.com/mx/listing/598122744/flores-violetas-princesa-100-algodon
圖 54 小結
https://fairmakers.com/2018/12/08/sustainable-fashion/