本論文主旨在建立一套數值模式，模擬波浪通過不透水雙列潛堤和人工沙漣底床之渦流生成和減衰，藉以探討矩形潛堤和人工沙漣底床和波浪互制時液面的變化及內部流場的運動特性。數值模式採用有限體積法，求解雷諾平均 Navier-Stokes 方程式 (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations, RANS) ，以期能夠呈現波浪場中非線性與黏性效應的影響，同時配合 紊流模式來模擬紊流效應。其中時間差分項以顯式法 (explicit) 來離散，壓力場則藉著預測—修正方式 (predictor-corrector procedure) 來建立，配合 MAC (Marker And Cell) 交錯網格系統，採用不等間距網格，自由液面採用高度函數法以建立高效率的數值模式。本模式與傳統方法之最大不同係使用 RANS，模擬波浪與結構物互制，完整地考慮非線性、黏性和紊流效應，以展現流場的變化。
本文將波浪分為孤立波 (solitary wave) 和週期波 (periodic wave) 兩大類分別討論。基於波浪由遠岸之深水區傳遞至近岸的淺水區，受地形變化影響產生淺化與折射現象，常形成淺水非線性運動。部分近海沿岸具較長波之波浪型態，類似孤立波運動，文獻上常用孤立波來表示海嘯 (tsunami) 、颱風暴潮 (storm surge) 等波浪特性，故瞭解孤立波之特性及研究孤立波與潛堤交互作用現象，乃為海岸工程重要課題。
在海岸永續利用的考量下，佈置系列潛堤的新工法或人工沙漣，為近年來所考慮的海岸工法之一。而雙列潛堤是單列潛堤排列方式的延伸，也是系列潛堤應用的基礎。過去的文獻中，對於雙列潛堤資料相當缺乏。因此，本文也選擇雙列潛堤的流場進行研究。
當波浪行經一波狀底床地形時，會有反射波產生，而在無流不透水的條件下，當自由液面水波波長為底床沙漣波長的兩倍時，波場於沙漣區前方會形成駐波，此時透射波會減小，反射波則會大增，此即為布拉格反射共振效應 (Bragg resonance)。運用此現象，可以於近岸海底或海洋結構物前設置人工沙洲使入射波能量衰減，以減少波浪對海岸及結構物的損害，因此許多學者紛紛投入此一研究行列。由於過去研究成果有限，為進一步瞭解布拉格共振之物理現象，本文利用 RANS 模式求解波浪通過沙漣底形之流場，進而探討波浪與人工沙漣底床地形交互作用後之不拉格共振現象。
基於上述原因，本論文分成三大主題的研究，第一個主題為孤立波通過潛堤流場之探討；第二個主題為週期波通過雙列潛堤流場之探討；第三個主題為布拉格反射現象的探討。
在孤立波與潛堤互制作用研究上：為了驗證數值計算之準確性，選取 (1) Lee 等人 (1982) 利用 LDA 量測孤立波經水平底床之水平、垂直速度和波形變化；(2) 藉由 Seabra-Santos 等人 (1987) 量測孤立波經半無限階梯之液面波高變化，驗證本數值計算結果。本文中同時探討孤立波通過潛堤流場變化、渦度、流線變化、受力、紊流能量收支。關於計算紊流能量收支方面，動能生成項扮演提供動能；對流有時扮演提供動能、有時消散動能。擴散項和能量消散率扮演消散動能的角色。整個過程中 項遠大於 項；潛堤上方的 的值較大，對流機制較重要。遠離結構物一段距離後，因紊流動能 K 幾乎很小，所以各項變化 (對流項、動能生成項、擴散項和能量消散項) 變得很小。
在週期波通過雙列潛堤問題方面：首先在數值驗證方面數藉由試驗資料驗證波浪通過潛堤後之波高與水平、垂直速度及流場，並與理論解比較線性波層流邊界層速度剖面。本文以變換不透水雙列潛堤間距及波浪條件進行一系列數值模擬，探討波浪通過雙列潛堤的渦流機制、渦度，流線變化，並觀察週期內紊流動能的變化及流場中各物理量最大值空間分佈。為了研究波浪通過潛堤後非線性效應影響，本文亦討論波浪變形及主頻至三倍頻波浪振幅的變化。
至於在週期波通過人工沙漣底床方面，本文數值結果與 Mase 等人 (1995) 比較相當吻合，文中著重於布拉格反射現象的探討，討論共振流場與無共振流場之差別。波浪通過人工沙連底床上方時，受到共振機制影響，波高逐漸減小；通過沙漣底床後，沙漣底床會反射部分入射波，而沙漣底床後的透射波高與入射波高相比，已明顯減小許多。結果中顯示波高最大值和最小值都出現在人工沙連底床的節點上。

The purpose of the present study is to develop a numerical model suitable for investigating the entire vortex generation and dissipation processes as water waves pass over impermeable submerged-double-breakwaters and over the rigid sand ripples. The significant benefit of the present study over the traditional way of analyzing wave propagation problems is to apply the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes) by taking account of the entire nonlinear, viscous and turbulent effects on the physical problem.
The model is employed to simulate the flow kinematics and the turbulence effects in the RANS. The RANS is used to simulate the flow field; and the transport equations are discretized by the finite volume method, based on a staggered grid system with variable width and height. The unsteady term is treated by an explicit method. The pressure field is obtained by a predictor-corrector procedure. In order to update the free surface configuration with every time step, the Height Function (HF) method is implemented.
The proposed model is used to study three different physical problems, which include a solitary wave passing over a submerged breakwater, waves propagating over submerged double breakwaters, and periodic waves passing over the artificial rippled beds.
In the first case we successfully simulated the detailed interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged breakwater. In order to establish accuracy of the numerical model, simulated results were often compared with the existing experimental data of Lee et al. (1982) and Seabra-Santos et al. (1987). The simulated wave profile and the local velocity variations were found to be in very good agreement with those reported in the experiments. Following these verifications, we made a systematic study concerning the interaction of a solitary wave and a submerged breakwater. The temporal variation of the vortices was investigated in terms of the circulation. The induced drag forces and the turbulent energy budget acting on the solitary wave are also determined and discussed.
In the second part of the thesis, the interactions of water waves and submerged-double-breakwaters were investigated. The simulated results for the incident wave profiles and the associated boundary layer flow behavior were compared with the available analytical solutions to verify the accuracy of the numerical scheme. The overall agreement between the simulated results and the existing laboratory measurements appeared quite satisfactory.
By using the same numerical model, we conducted a series of additional numerical experiments with various incident wave conditions and with different spatial variation between the submerged breakwaters in order to study the generation and the evolution process of the vortices, their intensity, the temporal variation of the streamlines, and the turbulent kinetic energy. To better understand the nonlinear effects following the wave propagation over the submerged double breakwaters, we make a detailed investigation concerning the wave deformation process and the change in harmonic wave amplitude.
Computed results demonstrate the detail flow separation mechanism both near the upstream and the downstream edges of the submerged breakwater. It is found that the clockwise vortices are produced at the down-wave edge of an obstacle when the wave crest passes over. The vortex is seen to dissipate and diminish as the wave trough arrives at the obstacle. Conversely, a counterclockwise vortex occurs at the up-wave edge of the obstacle when the wave trough passes and dissipates as the wave crest is above the obstacle. The vortex pair is observed to shed and form again at the lee side of the obstacle. The generation of vorticity with respect to the free surface has been investigation in this study. The nonlinear interaction among the incident wave components generates higher-order harmonics. Over the breakwater the magnitude of the higher-order component is found to increase. This is mainly due to the wave energy transfer from the fundamental harmonic to the higher-order harmonics. Trajectories of the fluid particles with initial location close to the structure were determined in order to provide an understanding of the possible sediment transport around submerged breakwaters. It has been found that the present model is quite efficient in accurately simulating the flow separation and the wave deformation process for the water waves propagating over impermeable submerged-double breakwaters.
Finally, the numerical model is used to study the influence of periodic wave propagation over artificial rippled beds. The numerical results concerning the wave amplitudes and the impermeable rippled bed agree very well with the analytical findings of Mase et al. (1995). We observed that the transmitted waves become small due to the presence of the rippled beds. Necessary simulations are also conducted to investigate the effects of the Bragg scattering by ripples. In case of resonance, spatial distribution of wave amplitudes is observed to attain its pick value while approaching the upstream part of an wavy ripple bed and it became minimum at the downstream side of the ripple bed. On the other hand, the local kinetic energy is found to attain its minimum value at a place where potential energy became maximum. The investigations were extended to cover flow features both with and without Bragg resonance.

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