本文針對近岸激浪過程進行探討，文中應用緩坡方程式 (Mild-Slope Eqaution，MSE) 描述近岸海域之波浪變形，同時利用雷諾平均納維爾-史托克斯方程式 (Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes，RANS) 結合自由液面處理方法對激浪過程之液面進行模擬。本文首先透過演進型緩坡方程式 (Evolution Equation for Mild-Slope Eqaution，EEMSE) 推算近岸水域之波場。再利用 EEMSE 所得之波場作為輸入條件，透過RANS模式，推算模擬波浪碎波及近岸激浪過程。本文數值模擬結果能掌握激浪過程之波形變化，作為兩棲登陸海況研判之重要資訊，以降低兩棲登陸作戰可能發生之不確定性。本文同時針對宜蘭利澤海岸的海域地形及波浪特性進行推算及激浪模擬，計算結果顯示本文結合EEMSE及RANS模式，可以用來模擬近岸激浪過程。

The purpose of this study is to study wave splashing, running, shoaling and breaking on the slopping bed. An evolution equation for mild-slope equation (EEMSE) model and RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes) model are used to simulate the wave transformations on the sloping bed. The RANS equations are used to calculate the flow field around the structures for various incident wave conditions. The model is employed to simulate the flow kinematics and the turbulence effects in the RANS equations. The significant benefit of the present study over the traditional way of analyzing wave propagation problems is to apply the RANS model and the embedding method by taking account of the fully nonlinear, viscous and turbulent effects on the physical problem. Coupling the Mild-Slope Equation model and RANS model, the wave transformations problem can be easily simulated. We have compared the numerical results with existing experimental data and found a close agreement between computational and measured data. The present investigation describes flow field and turbulence breaking waves on a slopping bed. The predicted wave deformation, mean velocity field, and turbulence distribution under the breaking wave are presented and discussed. The wave model has been tested for the case of wave propagation in the Letzer coastal waters of Yilan.

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