本文主旨為探討不規則波與離岸潛沒結構物之交互作用。藉由數值水槽中生成不規則波與求解非線性自由液面邊界條件下之二維時變Navier-Stokes方程，可獲得不規則波動下完整黏性流流況、底床剪應力與渦流環流。文中涵蓋四個主題：不規則波與其底床剪應力的線性與非線性特徵；潛堤週圍渦流的性質；渦流砂漣所引致的渦流特性。
本研究中生成不規則波的方式，係採用快速傅立葉轉換架構下的定譜振幅模式決定成份波，再於黏性數值造波水槽中造出各波浪成份。以此數值造波結果與靶譜比對下，證實本模式可精準地生成所要求的不規則波波譜。線性條件下水位變化與底床剪應力間的轉換函數可由理論求得，其與數值結果的一致性可知本黏性流模式可準確無誤的模擬黏性流流況。此外，水位譜與其相對應之底床剪力譜分別以主頻、譜的零階動差和譜寬參數討論之。數值結果的底床剪應力最大值則與Myrhaug (1995)的模式進行比對。黏性水槽所求得的底床剪應力與採用轉換函數所求得的結果十分符合。
為明瞭不規則波的非線性特徵，採用Dean and Sharma (1981)所推導的二階強制波模式─包含次諧波和超諧波─所合成的非線性不規則波進行初步探討。變化合成波中各成份波的相位，其波譜與偏度的空間變化都呈現出不規則的變動。數值模擬的不規則波在高非線性下，亦顯示出類似的現象。非線性條件下數值結果所求得的轉換函數與線性條件下的理論解比對，可發現非線性效應對轉換函數的影響不大。線性條件下的轉換函數仍可用於應床剪應力的推估。藉由數值結果，比較水位與底床剪應力的偏度空間變化，可發現兩者有一相位差，同時意謂著兩者的相位差在架構統計模式中不容忽視。
由於數值模式可精準重複，本模式在沒有任何假設下便可以分離入射波與反射波。從反射係數的分析中，可決定出一段不受造波板處二次反射波浪影響的時段，並進行渦流分析。本文提出一渦流自動辨識系統，其中以渦度為判斷為基礎，且須決定一適切的渦度門壏值。本文中以流場和渦流場確認渦度門壏值能完整描述渦流的範圍。環流和所選取的渦流區域以流場與渦度場的方式呈現出不同時間點的差異。從渦流的交互作用中可以發現，生成於潛堤側的渦流受接續生成於潛堤上方渦流的影響，其的衰減率提升為原來的三倍。不規則波作用下，大波後跟隨小波時，大波所產生的渦流能持續較長的時間。
運用邊界配適法，規則波與不規則波作用下與砂漣的互制分成平衡態和非平衡態的情況進行探討。在二倍砂漣高度以內的區域（砂漣邊界層），本數值模式模擬過渡段流況的結果與實驗有很好的一致性。前述的渦流自動辨識模式在此用以判斷砂漣上方形成的渦流特性。平衡態或非平衡態下，如果底床水粒子軌跡的振幅大於砂漣漣長，規則波下生成的環流強度因受限於漣長而有一最大值。渦流中心的運動軌跡也反應出類似的特性。不規則波下所生成的渦流數量與零上切所求得的波數並不一致，顯示並非任意大小的波動都能引致渦流的產生。

This work presents the simulation of irregular waves interacting with submerged offshore structures. By generating the incident irregular waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows are determined and the bed shear stress as well as vortex circulation can be obtained. Four topics were focus: irregular waves with the associated bed shear stress were studied linearly and nonlinearly, vortex formed beneath irregular waves around a submerged breakwater and ripples.
Irregular waves were generated by the wavemaker adopting deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented using the fast Fourier transform algorithm. The accuracy of the generated irregular waves and the viscous flows was confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the numerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function, respectively. Additionally, characteristics of the wave spectra and the associated shear stress spectra were discussed in terms of the spectral frequency, the zeroth spectral moment and the spectral bandwidth parameter. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by irregular waves, computed by this wave model, was compared with that obtained using Myrhaug’s model (1995). The transfer function method was also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and was demonstrated to be accurate.
Nonlinear properties of irregular waves are preliminary presented using the formula of the second-order bound waves, subharmonics and superharmonics, which deduced by Dean and Sharma (1981). As the associated phases changed, bound waves of the synthesized results show irregularity in spectrum and form randomness in spatial-varied skewness. Similar phenomena were found in the numerical results, although the magnitude of spectral higher harmonic components and the skewness are larger. The spatial-varied skewness of the surface elevation and the bed shear stress shows bound components indeed present, and indicate that the phase difference of surface elevation and bed shear stress has to be considered for building the associated statistical model.
Of the repeatable properties of the present numerical scheme, the incident waves and reflected waves from the submerged breakwater were separated without any assumption. A reliable time duration for analysis was confirmed by the comparison of reflected coefficients in order to ensure that the wave reflected from wavemaker would not affect the interesting duration. A vorticity-based method with a vorticity threshold were developed and made the automatic recognition of vortex become possible, in which the threshold was confirmed for well describing the vortex region. Both the circulations and the selected vortex region were shown in flow fields and vorticity contours. The interaction of the vortices was evidenced and showed the succeed-formed vortices above breakwater increased the breakdown rate of the vortices next to the breakwater three times. Of the irregular-wave train, the vortex of large wave followed by small one lasted longer.
Applying body-fitted boundary, different hydraulic conditions were studied about on and off equilibrium ripple pattern beneath regular and irregular waves. While concerning only the region beneath twice the ripple wave height, the present numerical scheme was verified with the experiment and has a good agreement within the transitional regime. The vortices formed beneath regular waves reached a limited circulation if the bed-orbital-displacement amplitude is larger than the ripple wavelength. The limitation can furthermore be evidenced by the trajectories of the vortex center. The vortices formed beneath irregular waves were recognized automatically as well, although the number of the zero-upcrossing waves and the vortices was not matched.

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