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研究生： 李耘
Lee, Yun
論文名稱： 自我民族誌研究：探索參與飲食書寫與數位敘事中之賦權
An Autoethnographic Study: Exploring Empowerment through Engaging in Food Writing and Digital Storytelling
指導教授： 林蕙玟
Lin, Hui-Wen
學位類別： 碩士
Master
系所名稱： 規劃與設計學院 - 創意產業設計研究所
Institute of Creative Industries Design
論文出版年： 2026
畢業學年度： 114
語文別： 英文
論文頁數： 305
中文關鍵詞： 飲食書寫 、離散 、數位敘事 、賦權 、自我民族誌
外文關鍵詞： Food writing, Displacement, Digital storytelling, Empowerment, Autoethnography
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    • 「臺灣菜」、「臺灣味」等將地方與菜餚、味道連結在一起的詞彙，自日治時代便已出現，然而隨著社會脈動、政治迭代，與種族多元這個顯著變因下，此類概念的定義不斷流動，更逐漸成為人人皆可提出自身解釋的開放性議題。國族菜餚作為國家象徵的縮影，是劃定群體邊界、區分「我們」與「他者」的重要工具，而台灣菜的模糊，反映出台灣國族身份凝聚上的暧昧性與多重性。台灣菜需要透過「想像」來建構菜餚與國家的共同體，而這個講述必須建立在一個人人皆能參與、能說、能被聽見的場域之中。
    飲食書寫正是一個得以承載此種想像與對話的場域。食物作為符號，承載著情感與記憶；而書寫行為本身，則使食物得以從個體經驗延伸至群體對話。本研究認為，飲食書寫能為臺灣菜的想像與討論開啟一個可持續累積的空間，並記錄生活於此地的人們如何透過味道理解自身、回望家鄉，進而建構對國族菜餚的想像。本研究首先以國家文化記憶庫過往案例「可食記憶」作為了解飲食書寫之蒐集與運作方式起始點，透過內容分析，以及對策展人與參與團體的訪談，梳理其敘事策略、策展效果與資料蒐集歷程，並進一步思考在將飲食書寫推進至國家層級之前，應先回望敘事者在書寫食物過程中所獲得的經驗與意義。
    為理解飲食書寫中關於認同、情感與連結的生成脈絡，本研究採取自我民族誌之研究方法，以「移動」為題，書寫研究者自己在日本交換期間如何藉由食物維繫家鄉連結，並在異地形塑、重申與同儕之間的群體邊界。此書寫過程的反思成為研究切入的第二層。
    第三層進一步將研究場域由「我」拓展至「他者」。本研究邀請四位在台灣生活超過五年的東南亞新住民，透過將數位敘事創作流程融入訪談，與參與者一同撰寫關於「他們」的食物、家鄉、遷移與情感，變成「我們」的記憶。數位敘事降低了書寫門檻，使參與者得以以自身熟悉的方式述說自己的飲食故事，並在回憶過程中與食物、記憶與身份重新對話。
    本研究整合研究者自身飲食書寫之實踐經驗與四位參與者的書寫歷程，歸納出三項結論。首先為食物在離散經驗中具有關鍵的象徵性，作為連結個體與家鄉的核心媒介，既能鞏固群體內部的認同，也能作為與外部社會溝通的橋樑。其次，透過數位媒介的傳播，飲食敘事得以形塑並強化族群認同，並拓展群體邊界，使食物成為在臺灣社會中展示文化身份的重要窗口。最後，飲食書寫構成了一個跨文化對話的「第三空間」，為被邊緣群體提供在所處社會中詮釋與重新定義自身的可能，而書寫本身所具備的賦權潛能，使書寫者得以在敘事中獲得發聲機會、深化自我認同、累積敘事能力，並在群體內外持續開啟對話與創作的可能。
    最終，本研究結合賦權的三個層次，提出一個於飲食書寫過程中逐步發生賦權的模型，將飲食書寫視為一種出發於個人與飲食之記憶與感官經驗，逐步轉化為集體文化資源與公共話語的動態實踐，並在此過程中實現從自我到社會的多層次賦權，為個人在群體內外持續展開對話、書寫與想像，提供可能的路徑。

    Terms like “Taiwanese cuisine” and “Taiwanese flavor,” which connect place with food and taste, have been in use since the Japanese colonial period. However, as society, politics, and ethnic diversity have evolved, the definitions of these concepts have become fluid and open to individual interpretation. National cuisines, as symbols of the nation, help to draw boundaries between “us” and “others.” The ambiguity of Taiwanese cuisine reflects the complexity and multiplicity of Taiwan’s national identity. Since Taiwanese cuisine must be “imagined” into being, its narratives must arise within a space where everyone can speak, participate, and be heard.
    Food writing provides precisely such a space. Food, as a signifier, carries emotion and memory, where writing transforms personal experiences into collective dialogue. This study argues that food writing creates a discursive arena for imagining and negotiating Taiwanese cuisine, while documenting how people in Taiwan understand themselves, recall their homelands, and construct visions of a national cuisine through the lens of taste. The research begins with an analysis of Edible Memories, an online exhibition from Taiwan’s National Cultural Memory Bank, to examine the collection and operation of food writing through content analysis and interviews with curators and participating organizations. This phase investigates narrative, curatorial effects, and data-gathering processes, resulting in a reflection on the importance of attending to what narrators themselves gain from food writing before elevating such narratives to the national level.
    To further explore how identity, emotion, and connection emerge in food writing, this research adopts an autoethnographic approach. Centered on the theme of “displacement” and “movement”, the researcher documents her own experience during a study-abroad period in Japan, examining how food writing was used to maintain ties to home and to shape and reaffirm group boundaries among peers in a foreign context. Reflexive engagement with this writing process constitutes the second analytical layer of the study.
    The third layer broadens the research field from “self” to “others.” Four Southeast Asian immigrants who have resided in Taiwan for over five years were invited to participate in the study. By integrating a digital storytelling process into semi-structured interviews, the researcher collaborated with them to create narratives about their food, hometowns, migration, and emotions, transforming “their” stories into “our” shared memories. Digital storytelling lowered the barriers to participation, allowing them to narrate in familiar ways, revisiting their memories while re-engaging with food, identity, and self-understanding.
    This study analyzes both the researcher’s and the participants’ writing processes, yielding three key insights. First, food holds essential symbolic power in diasporic experience, serving as a core medium that connects individuals to their homelands, consolidates internal group identity, and facilitates communication with broader society. Second, through digital circulation, food narratives contribute to the formation and reinforcement of ethnic identity and the expansion of group boundaries, positioning food as an important site for the display of cultural identity within Taiwanese society. Finally, food writing constitutes a “third space” for cross-cultural dialogue, providing marginalized groups with opportunities to interpret and redefine themselves within the host societies. The empowering potential of writing enables narrators to reclaim voice, deepen self-understanding, accumulate narrative capacity, and sustain possibilities for dialogue and creative expression both within and beyond their communities.
    Ultimately, this study integrates three levels of empowerment to propose a model of progressive empowerment through the process of food writing. This model conceptualizes food writing as a dynamic practice that begins with personal memories and sensory experiences of food and gradually transforms them into collective cultural resources and public discourse. Through this process, multi-layered empowerment, from the self to the social, emerges, offering individuals pathways to continue writing, dialoguing, and imagining across communal and societal boundaries.

    Abstract i 中文摘要 iii Acknowledgement v Table of Contents vii List of Tables x List of Figures xi Chapter 1. Preface 1 1.1. Research Background 1 1.2. Construction of a National Cuisine 3 1.3. Food Writing to Collective Memories and Identities 5 1.4. The Definition of Food Writing and Literature 8 Chapter 2. Precedent and Research Design 13 2.1. Attempt from the Government: Edible Memories 13 2.1.1. About Edible Memories 15 2.1.2. Interviews with the Curator and Participants 22 2.1.3. Findings from the Precedent 26 2.2. Food Writing as Research Practice 32 2.3. Research Design 33 Chapter 3. The Recipe of the Research: Autoethnography 36 3.1. The Research Method of Autoethnography 36 3.2. The Hó-Tshuì-Táu 39 3.3. Entering the Exploration 41 3.4. Away from Home 43 3.5. Not Like what I Anticipated 45 Chapter 4. I Write About Food 47 4.1. I Miss My Mom, So… 47 4.1.1. Mantou 49 4.1.2. Sharing Online 52 4.1.3. Analysis and Reflection 54 4.2. It Was Not What I’m Familiar with, So… 59 4.2.1. Gyoza and Dumpling 61 4.2.2. Sharing Online 64 4.2.3. Analysis and Reflection 66 4.3. Gathering with My Fellow Taiwanese, So… 74 4.3.1. Hot Pot 76 4.3.2. Analysis and Reflection 79 4.4. Insight and Reflection from the Personal Practice 83 4.4.1. The Catalysts to Write it Down 84 4.4.2. Writing Food as a Practice 86 4.4.3. The Writing Process 93 4.4.4. Language Barrier 95 4.4.5. Narrative Voice and Target Audience 97 Chapter 5. What About Others? 99 5.1. Inviting and Involving Others 99 5.2. Digital storytelling 101 5.2.1. Gaining through the Digital Storytelling Process 103 5.3. Collecting Others’ Voices 107 5.3.1. Hearing Whose Voices? 108 5.3.2. Designing the Story-Collecting Process 109 5.3.3. In Their Comfortable Language 117 Chapter 6. We Write About Food 118 6.1. Participant A: Miss L 119 6.1.1. During the Interview 120 6.1.2. The Food Writing 127 6.2. Participant B: Mrs. D 131 6.2.1. During the Interview 132 6.2.2. The Food Writing 139 6.3. Participants C and D: Jie Jie and Mei Mei 143 6.3.1. During the Interview 144 6.3.2. The Food Writing 151 6.4. Reflecting the Collaborative Practice 160 Chapter 7. Savoring the Practices 162 7.1. Writing Food as a Practice 163 7.1.1. The Roles of Food 163 7.2. The Cross-Community Interaction and Communication 166 7.3. Empowering through Writing 169 7.3.1. The Empowering Process 174 7.4. Digital Storytelling: Reflections from the Practice 180 7.4.1. As a Site of Empowerment 183 7.4.2. Digital storytelling as a Passive Method 184 7.4.3. Social Media Within 186 Chapter 8. Chewed and Digested 188 8.1. What a Journey 188 8.2. As an Autoethnographer 193 8.3. Social, Cultural, and Academic Implications 198 8.4. Limitations and Suggestions for Future Research 199 References 202 Appendices 212 Appendix A: Participants and Contents of Edible Memories 212 Appendix B: Translations of the Notes Taken before My Writing 213 The Note of Mantou 213 The Note of Gyoza 213 The Note of Hotpot 214 Appendix C: Interview Guideline and Questions 215 Pilot Participants Interview Question 215 Revised Participants Interview Question 216 Appendix D: Food Writing of the Participants 220 Food Writing of Miss L 220 Food Writing of Mrs. D 222 Appendix E: Interview Details and Transcripts 223 Interview List 223 Transcript of Interview with Professor Shih-Yuen Hsieh 224 Transcript of Interview with Shidianzi 69 Bookstore 229 Transcript of Interview with Niu-Li Community Exchange Association 234 Transcript of Interview with Participant A: Miss L 243 Transcript of Interview with Participant B: Mrs. D 254 Transcript of Interview with Participant C and D: Jie Jie and Mei Mei 271

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